Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
The Alabaster Mosque covers many acres. It has a paved marble court, as
big as a good-sized field, around which are cloisters. This is roofed
with the sky, and in the midst of it is a great marble fountain where the
worshippers bathe their feet and hands before they go in to pray. The
mosque is at the back of this court, facing Mecca. Its many domes rise to
a great height and its minarets seem to pierce the sky. It is built of
alabaster, but its exterior has become worn and pitted by the sands of
the desert, which have been blown against its walls until it has nothing
of the grandeur which it must have shown when its founder worshipped
within it.
The interior, however, was wonderfully beautiful that night, when its
gorgeous decorations were shown off by the thousands of lights of this
great service. Under the gaslight and lamplight the tinsel which during
the day shocks the taste was softened and beautified. The alabaster of
the walls became as pure as Mexican onyx, and the rare Persian rugs that
lay upon the floor took on a more velvety tint.
See it all again with me. In the eye of your mind cover an acre field
with the richest of oriental rugs; erect about it walls of pure white
alabaster with veins as delicate as those of the moss agate; let these
walls run up for hundreds of feet; build galleries around them and
roof the whole with great domes in which are windows of stained glass;
hang lamps by the thousands from the ceiling, place here and there an
alabaster column. Now you have some idea of this mosque as it looked on
the night of Mohammed’s birthday.
You must, however, add the worshippers to the picture. Thousands of
oriental costumes; turbans of white, black, and green; rich gowns and
sober, long-bearded, dark faces, shine out under the lights in every
part of the building. Add likewise the mass of Egyptian soldiers in
gold lace and modern uniforms, with red fezzes on their heads, and the
hundreds of noble Egyptians in European clothes. There are no shoes in
the assemblage, and the crowd moves about on the rugs in bare feet or
stockings.
What a babel of sounds goes up from the different parts of the building,
and how strange are the sights! Here a dozen old men squat on their
haunches, facing each other, and rock back and forth as they recite
passages of the Koran. Here is a man worshipping all alone; there is a
crowd of long-haired, wild-eyed ascetics with faces of all shades of
black, yellow, and white. They are so dirty and emaciated they make one
think of the hermits of fiction. They stand in a ring and go through
the queerest of antics to the weird music of three great tambourines and
two drums played by worshippers quite as wild looking as themselves. It
is a religious gymnastic show, the horrible nature of which cannot be
described upon paper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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