Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
Even that surly lexicographer, Doctor Samuel Johnson (who, by the
way, claimed the same city for his birthplace as does the writer),
who could not be induced to recognise the merits of Scotch scenery,
and preferred Fleet Street to the Trossachs, extolled the luxury of
a Scotch breakfast above that of all other countries. And Sir Walter
Scott, who never enthused much about meat and drink, is responsible in
_Waverley_ for a passage calculated to make the mouths of most people
water:
"He found Miss Bradwardine presiding over the tea and coffee, the
table loaded with warm bread, both of flour, oatmeal, and barley meal,
in the shape of loaves, cakes, biscuits, and other varieties, together
with eggs, reindeer ham, mutton and beef ditto, smoked salmon, and
many other delicacies. A mess of oatmeal porridge, flanked by a silver
jug which held an equal mixture of cream and buttermilk, was placed
for the Baron's share of the repast."
"And," as Mr. Samuel Weller would have observed, "a wery good idea of
a breakfast, too."
A beef-ham sounds like a "large order" for breakfast, even when we
come to consider that the Scotch "beastie," in Sir Walter Scott's
time, was wanting in "beam" and stature. I have seen and partaken of a
ham cut from a Yorkshire pig, and weighing 52 lbs.; but even a Scotch
beef-ham must have topped that weight considerably. Fortunately the
sideboards of those times were substantial of build.
Missing from the above bill-of-fare is the haddock,
_The Fin'an Haddie_,
a bird which at that period had probably not been invented. But the
modern Scottish breakfast-table is not properly furnished without it.
The genuine "Fin'an" is known by its appetising savour and by its
colour--a creamy yellow, which is totally distinct from the Vandyke
browny hue of the haddock which is creosoted in the neighbourhood of
the Blackfriars Road, London, S.E. "Strip off the skin," says the
recipe in one cookery book, "and broil before the fire or over a
quick clear one." Another way--_my_ way--is _not_ to strip off the
skin and to _steam_ your haddies. Place them in a dish which has been
previously heated. Throw boiling water on them, and cover closely
with a plate; place on a hot stove, and in from 10 to 15 minutes the
Fin'ans will be accomplished. Drain, and serve hot as hot, buttered,
with a sprinkling of cayenne, and, maybe, a dash of Worcester sauce.
Salmon is naturally a welcome guest at the table of the land of his
birth, served fresh when in season, and smoked or kippered at all
times.
_A Salmon Steak_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account