Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
our caterers have made giant strides in the last dozen years. A member
of a large firm once told me that it was "out of the question" to
supply joints, chops, and steaks in the dining-rooms of a grand stand,
distant far from his base of operations, London. "Impossible, my dear
sir! we couldn't do it without incurring a ruinous loss." But the
whirligig of time has proved this feat to be not only possible, but
one which has led to the best results for all concerned. In the matter
of chops and steaks I hope to see further reforms introduced. These
succulent dainties, it cannot be too widely known, are not at their
best unless _cut fresh_ from loin or rump, just before being placed
on the gridiron. The longer a cut chop (raw) is kept the more of its
virtue is lost. It might, possibly, cause a little extra delay, and a
little extra expense, to send off loins and rumps from the butcher's
shop, instead of ready-cut portions, but the experiment would answer,
in the long run. The same rule, of course, should apply to restaurants
and grill-rooms all over the world.
During the autumn and winter months, race-course caterers seem to
have but one idea of warm comforting food for their customers, and
the name of that idea is Irish stew. This is no doubt an appetising
dish, but might be varied occasionally for the benefit of the habitual
follower of the sport of kings. Why not pea-soup, jugged hare (hares
are cheap enough), hot-pot, Scotch broth, mullagatawny, hotch-potch,
stewed or curried rabbit, with rice, shepherd's pie, haricot ox-tails,
sheep's head broth (Scotch fashion), and hare soup! What is the matter
with the world-renowned stew of which we read in _The Old Curiosity
Shop_--the supper provided by the landlord of the "Jolly Sandboys" for
the itinerant showmen? Here it is again:
"'It's a stew of tripe,' said the landlord, smacking his
lips, 'and cowheel,' smacking them again, 'and bacon,' smacking
them once more, 'and steak,' smacking them for the fourth time,
'and peas, cauliflowers, new potatoes, and sparrowgrass, all
working up together in one delicious gravy.' Having come to
the climax, he smacked his lips a great many times, and taking
a long hearty sniff of the fragrance that was hovering about,
put on the cover again with the air of one whose toils on earth
were over.
"'At what time will it be ready?' asked Mr. Codlin
faintly. 'It'll be done to a turn,' said the landlord, looking
up at the clock, 'at twenty-two minutes before eleven.'
"'Then,' said Mr. Codlin, 'fetch me a pint of warm ale,
and don't let nobody bring into the room even so much as a
biscuit till the time arrives.'"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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