Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
The writer well remembers the time when the refreshments on Newmarket
Heath at race-time were dispensed from a booth, which stood almost
adjoining the "Birdcage." Said refreshments were rough, but
satisfying, and consisted of thick sandwiches, cheese, and bread,
with "thumb-pieces" (or "thumbers") of beef, mutton, and pork, which
the luncher was privileged to cut with his own clasp-knife. Said
"thumbers" seem to have gone out of favour with the aristocracy of the
Turf; but the true racing or coursing sandwich still forms part of the
_impedimenta_ of many a cash-bookmaker, of his clerk, and of many a
"little" backer. 'Tis a solid, satisfying sandwich, and is just the
sort of nourishment for a hard worker on a bitter November day. Let
your steak be grilling, whilst you are enjoying your breakfast--some
prefer the ox-portion fried, for these simple speculators have strange
tastes--then take the steak off the fire and place it, all hot,
between two _thick_ slices of bread. The sandwich will require several
paper wrappings, if you value the purity of your pocket-linings.
And when eaten cold, the juices of the meat will be found to have
irrigated the bread, with more or less "delicious gravy." And, as Sam
Weller ought to have said, "it's the gravy as does it."
"But what about the swells?" I fancy I hear somebody asking, "Is my
Lord Tomnoddy, or the Duke of Earlswood to be compelled to satisfy his
hunger, on a race-course, with tripe and fat bacon? Are you really
advising those dapper-looking, tailor-made ladies on yonder drag to
insert their delicate teeth in a sandwich which would have puzzled
Gargantua to masticate?" Not at all, my good sir, or madam. The
well-appointed coach should be well-appointed within and without. Of
course the luncheon it contains will differ materially according to
the season of the year. This is the sort of meal I will provide, an
you will deign to visit the Arabian tent behind my coach, at Ascot:
Lobster mayonnaise, salmon cutlets with Tartar sauce (_iced_), curried
prawns (_iced_), lobster cutlets, _chaud-froid_ of quails, _foie
gras_ in aspic, prawns in ditto, plovers' eggs in ditto, galantine of
chicken, York ham, sweets various, including iced gooseberry fool;
and, as the _pièce de résistance_, an
_Angel's Pie_.
Many people would call this a pigeon pie, for in good sooth there be
pigeons in it; but 'tis a pie worthy of a brighter sphere than this.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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