Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
into Bonnie Scotland. Yes, the poet's "great chieftain o' the puddin'
race" is but an Italian dish after all. The Apician pork haggis[3]
was a boiled pig's stomach filled with fry and brains, raw eggs,
and pine-apples beaten to a pulp, and seasoned with _liquamen_. For
although some of the Romans' tastes savoured of refinement, many of
them were "absolutely beastly." The idea of pig's fry and pine-apples
mixed is horrible enough; but take a look into the constitution of
this _liquamen_, and wonder no longer that Gibbons wrote his _Decline
and Fall_ with so much feeling and _gusto_. This sauce was obtained
from the intestines, gills, and blood of fishes, great and small,
stirred together with salt, and exposed in an open vat in the sun,
until the compound became putrid. When putrefaction had done its work,
wine and spices were added to the hell-broth, which was subsequently
strained and sent into the Roman market. This _liquamen_ was
manufactured in Greece, and not one of all the poets of sunny Italy
seems to have satirised the "made-in-Greece" custom, which in those
days must have been almost as obnoxious as the "made-in-Germany" or
the "made-in-Whitechapel" scare of to-day.
The usual farinaceous ingredient of the Roman haggis was frumenty, but
frequently no grain whatever was applied; and instead of mincing the
ingredients, as do the Scots, the ancients pounded them in a mortar,
well moistened with _liquamen_, until reduced to pulp. We are further
told in history that a Roman gladiator was capable, after playing with
eggs, fish, nightingales' tongues, dormice, and haggis, of finishing
a wild boar at a sitting. But as the old lady remarked of the great
tragedy, this happened a long time ago, so let's hope it isn't true.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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