Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
In a soup plate, mix the yolks of two hard-boiled
eggs--boiled for thirty minutes, and afterwards thrown into
cold water--into a smooth paste with a teaspoonful of made
mustard, and a tablespoonful of plain vinegar, added drop by
drop. Keep on stirring, and add a dessert-spoonful of tarragon
vinegar, a few drops of essence of anchovies, a teaspoonful
(_not heaped_) of salt, about the same quantity of sifted
sugar, and a good pinch of cayenne. [The tendency of black
pepper is to make a salad gritty, which is an abomination.]
Lastly, add, drop by drop, three tablespoonfuls of oil. Pour
this dressing (which should be in a continual state of stir)
into your salad bowl. Add the pickings of a hen lobster cut
into dice, and atop of the lobster, lettuces which have been
shred with clean fingers, or with ivory forks; a little endive
may be added, with a slice or two of beetroot; but no onion (or
very little) in a lobster salad. A few shreds of anchovy may
be placed atop; with beetroot cut into shapes, the whites of
the eggs, and the coral of the lobster, for the sake of effect;
but seek not, O student, to achieve prettiness of effect to
the detriment of practical utility. I need hardly add that the
sooner after its manufacture a salad is eaten, the better will
be its flavour. And the solid ingredients should only be mixed
with the dressing at the very last moment; otherwise a sodden,
flabby effect will be produced, which is neither pleasing to
the eye, nor calculated to promote good digestion.
I am perfectly aware that the above is not a strict _Mayonnaise_
dressing, in which the egg yolks should be raw, instead of cooked.
But, like the Scotsman, I have "tried baith," and prefer my own way,
which more resembles the _sauce Tartare_, than the _Mayonnaise_
of our lively neighbours, who, by the way, merely wipe, instead
of wash, their lettuces and endive, to preserve, as they say, the
flavour. Of course this is a matter of taste, but the writer must
own to a preference for the baptised article, which must, however,
on no account be left to soak, but be simply freed from dirt, grit,
and--other things.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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