Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
What is the origin of the word "MAYONNAISE"? No two Frenchmen will
give you the same answer. "Of or belonging to Mayonne" would seem
to be the meaning of the word; but then there is no such place as
Mayonne in the whole of France. Grimod de la Reyniere maintained
that the proper word was "BAYONNAISE," meaning a native of Bayonne,
on the Spanish frontier. Afterwards Grimod, who was a resourceful
man, got hold of another idea, and said that the word was probably
"MAHONNAISE," and so named in honour of Marshal Richelieu's capture
of the stronghold of Mahon, in the island of Minorca. But what had
this victory got to do with a salad dressing? What was the connection
of raw eggs and tarragon vinegar with Marshal Richelieu? Then up
came another cook, in the person of Carême, who established it as
an absolute certainty that the genuine word was "MAGNONNAISE," from
the word "_manier_," to manipulate. But as nobody would stand this
definition for long, a fresh search had to be made; and this time
an old Provençal verb was dug up--_mahonner_, or more correctly
_maghonner_, to worry or fatigue. And this is now said by purists to
be the source of _Mayonnaise_--"something worried," or fatigued. And
the reason for the gender of the noun is said to be that in ancient
times lovely woman was accustomed to manipulate the salad with her own
fair fingers. In the time of Rousseau, the phrase _retourner la salade
avec les doigts_ was used to describe a woman as being still young and
beautiful; just as in Yorkshire at the present time, "she canna mak'
a bit o' bread" is used to describe a woman who is of no possible use
in the house. So a _Mayonnaise_ or a _Mahonnaise_--I care not which
be the correct spelling--was a young lady who "fatigued" the salad.
More shame to the gallants of the day, who allowed "fatigue" to be
associated with youth and beauty!
But can it possibly matter what the word means, when the mixture
is smooth and savoury; and so deftly blended that no one flavour
predominates? And herein lies the secret of every mixture used for
the refreshment of the inner man and woman; whether it be a soup, a
curry, a trifle, a punch, or a cup--no one ingredient should be of
more weight or importance than another. And that was the secret of
the "delicious gravy" furnished by the celebrated stew at the "Jolly
Farmers," in _The Old Curiosity Shop_ of Charles Dickens.
MAYONNAISE (we will drop for the nonce, the other spelling) is made
thus:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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