No rivers of water of notable size pour down this west coast, but
rivers of green flood the shallow cañons. Here and there from the crest
of the range one catches an arrowy glimpse of a seasonal stream, but
from the sea-view the furred chaparral is unbroken except for bare
ridges, wind-swept even of the round-headed oaks. This coast country is
a favourite browsing place for deer; they can be seen there still in
early summer, feeding on the acorns of the scrub oaks, and especially
on the tender twigs of wind-fallen trees, or herding at noon in the
deep fern which closes like cleft waters over their heads. Until
within a few years it was no unlikely thing to hear little black bears
snorting and snuffing under the manzanita, of the berries of which
they are inordinately fond. This lovely shrub with its twisty, satiny
stems of wine-red, suffusing brown, its pale conventionalised leaves
and flat little umbels of berries, suggests somehow the carving on old
Gothic choirs, as though it borrowed its characteristic touch from an
external shaping hand; as if with its predetermined habit of growth it
had a secret affinity for man, and waited but to be transplanted into
gardens. It needs, however, no garden facilities, but shapes itself
to the most inhospitable conditions. About the time it begins to put
forth its thousand waxy bells, in December or January, the toyon, the
native holly, is at its handsomest. This is a late summer flowering
shrub that in mid-winter loses a little of its glossy green, and above
its yellowing foliage bears berries in great scarlet clusters. Between
these two overlapping ends, the gaumet of the chaparral is run in blues
of wild lilac, reds and purples of rhus and buckthorn and the wide,
white umbels of the alder, which here becomes a tree fifty to sixty
feet in height. It is the only one of the tall chaparral which has
edible fruit, for though bears and Indians make a meal of manzanita,
it does not commend itself to cultivated taste. More humble species,
huckleberry, thimble, and blackberry, crowd the open spaces under the
oak-madroño forests, or, as if they knew their particular usefulness
to man, come hurrying to clearings of the axe, and may be seen holding
hands as they climb to cover the track of careless fires. In June whole
hill-slopes, under the pine and madroños, burn crimson with sweet, wild
strawberries. The wild currant and the fuchsia-flowered gooseberry are
not edible, but they are under no such obligation; they "make good"
with long wands of jewel-red, drooping blossoms, and in the case of
the currant, with delicate pink racemes, thrown out almost before
the leaves while the earth still smells of winter dampness. Though
nobody seems to know how it travelled so far, the "incense shrub" is
a favourite of English gardens where, before the primroses begin, it
serves the same purpose as in the west coast cañons, quickening the
sense into anticipations of beauty on every side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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