About five hundred yards outside the surf, from Laboratory Point,
circling the peninsula to Mission Point on the south, the submerged
rocky ridge has grown a great, tawny mane of kelp. Every year it is
combed and cut by the equinoctial tides, and cast ashore in brown,
sea-smelling wind-rows, and every year it grows again to be the
feeding-ground of a million water-haunting birds. Here the Ancient
Murrelet fattens for the long flight to the Alaskan breeding-grounds,
and in the wildest gales the little nocturnal auklets may be heard
calling to one another above the warring thunder of the surf, or
when the nights are clear and the mists all banded low beneath the
moon, they startle the beach wanderer with their high keen notes and
beetle whirring wings. Long triangular flights of curlew drop down
these beaches against the westering sun, with wings extended straight
above their heads, furling like the little lateen sails come home from
fishing. Sandpipers, sanderlings, all the ripple runners, the skimmers
of the receding foam, all the scavengers of the tide, the gulls,
glaucous-winged, ringbilled, and the species that take their name from
the locality, may be found here following the plough as robins do in
the spring. When the herring school in the bay nothing could exceed the
multitude and clamour of the herring gulls. They stretch out in close
order, wing beating against wing, actually over square miles of the
ruffling water between Point Pinos and the anchorage. But any attempt
to render an account of the wild, winged life that flashes about the
bays of Carmel and Monterey would read like an ornithologist's record.
After storms that divide the waters outside the bay into great toppling
mountains, in the quiet strip between the kelp and the beaches,
thousands of shearwaters may be seen sleeping in long, swaying,
feathered pontoons, shoulder to shoulder. The island rocks standing
within the surf, from the Point of Pines all down the coast to Point
Sur, are famous rookeries of cormorant. Watchful and black against the
guano-whitened rocks, they guard their ancestral nests, redecorated
each season with gay weed, pulled from the painted gardens of the deep;
turning their long necks this way and that like revolving turret-tops,
they beat off the gluttonous gulls with a devotion which would seem to
demand some better excuse than the naked, greasy, wide-mouthed young.
Warm mornings these can be seen stretching black-stemmed, gaping bills
from the nesting hollows, waving this way and that like the tips of
voracious sea anemones. Other rocks, white with salty rime, are given
by mutual consent to rookeries of the yelping seals, the "sea lions" of
this coast. Moonlight nights they can be seen playing there, with the
weird half-human suggestion as of some mythical sea creatures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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