Three roads go up out of the peninsula to entice the imagination--that
which we have already taken to the hills of Salinas and the little
town of San Juan, the road to Carmel Valley, and the adventurous
trail which leads all down the well-bitten coast past Sur and Pieoras
Blancos. The Valley road turns off at the top of the divide between
Carmel and Monterey; it passes on the landward side of the Mission
into the river-bottom and skirts the narrow chain of farms, rising
with the rise of the thinly-forested hills toward Tasajara, the Place
of Springs. Here it is lost in the intricacies of the "back country."
Deer-hunters go that way in the season, and those whose delight it is
to lose themselves in the wilderness, to taste wild fruit and know no
roof but the windy tent of stars. Years since there used to come out
of that country shy-spoken, bearded men with bear-meat to sell and wild
honey in the honeycomb, rifled from hiving rocks and hollow trees; but
I fancy they are all dead now, or translated into the tall moss-bearded
pines.
The coast road, after it leaves Point Lobos behind, goes south and
south, between high trackless hills and the lineless Pacific floor.
From the Point you can see it rise over bare, sea-breasting hills, and
disappear in narrow cañons down which, it is reported, immeasurable
redwoods follow the white-footed creeks almost to the surf. Dim,
violet-tinted islands rise offshore to break the sea's assault. Now
and then one ventures in that direction as far as Arbolado, to return
prophesying. But the most of us are wiser, understanding that the best
service the road can render us is to remain a dramatic and unlimned
possibility.
V
OLD SPANISH GARDENS
Dona Ina Manuelita Echivarra had come to the time of life when waists
were not to be mentioned. It took all the evidence of her name to
convince you that her cheek had once known tints of the olive and
apricot. Tio Juan, who sunned himself daily in her patio, had achieved
the richness of weathered teak; his moustachios were whitened as with
the rime that collects on old adobes sometimes near the sea-shore.
But Dona Ina, who missed by a score of years his mark of the days of
_mañana por la mañana_, was muddily dark, and her moustache--but one
does not suggest such things of a lady, and that Dona Ina was a lady
could be proved by a foot so delicately arched and pointed, an ankle so
neat that there was not another like it in your acquaintance save the
mate to it.
Once you had seen it peeping forth from under the black skirt--have
not Castilian ladies worn black immemorially?--you did not require
the assurance of Tio Juan that there was no one in her day could have
danced _la jota_ with Dona Ina Manuelita.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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