Cambridge is no city of spires. She lies belted with woods in the
midst of a wide plain. To south, to west, to east stretches a
lowland landscape, delicately moulded, rich in pasture and
corn-bearing fields. Northwards a man need ride but a few miles
across the fens to hear the bells of Ely, or at twilight to see the
lantern of that ancient church preserve its solitary vision of the
sun. Through this broad tract of country, whose every detail is
typical of all which is most beautiful in the Eastern Midlands, winds
that gentlest of English rivers, the Cam. Above Cambridge, it still
bears its ancient name of Granta; at Ely it is the Ouse. The scenery
along its upper reaches, though small in scale, is of singular merit
to eyes which are not weary of "Nature's old felicities". Near
Grantchester, a lock now marks an ancient bifurcation of the river,
and here the stream widens to form a deep sequestered pool, shaded by
a veritable arena of tall trees. Poet as well as peasant must often
have bathed here and have made it a place of meditation. It was a
favourite spot with Byron, and it is still called after him.
Passing from the countryside to within the boundaries of the
University itself, nothing, perhaps, will seem more remarkable to the
curious observer than the absence of that hard-featured grandeur with
which the architecture of the Middle Ages was so deeply impressed.
Cambridge goes back eight centuries; but there remains little to
remind us of those many vicissitudes of mediæval life from which
neither of the Universities emerged unscathed; for with the
disappearance of Feudalism, the advent of the New Learning, and the
breakdown of Monasticism, Cambridge assumed a richer dress, and the
fine apparel of those days becomes her still. From that string of
Tudor palaces whose broad lawns and well-nurtured gardens mark the
lazy passage of the Cam, to those more distant Colleges of Jesus and
Emmanuel, a grave tranquillity pervades the whole. This sense of
peace and of contentment, so precious to the individual mind, seems
largely due to that gracious domesticity which the Tudor architect so
well knew how to impart even to the meanest of his college buildings.
But to those later architects who practised here, while architecture
was still an art in England, is owing that conscious, studied
stateliness we now prize. The genius of Wren, which at Oxford in his
tower of Christ Church with inimitable propriety seized upon and
revivified for his purpose the Gothic style of architecture, as
easily and as properly adapted itself to the more reticent temper of
this University. The examples of his skill which may be seen at
Pembroke and Emmanuel; the bridge at St. John's, built by his pupil
Hawksmoor apparently from his designs; above all his great Library at
Trinity, remain to show with what appreciation he met the
contemplative character of the Cambridge mind, with what zest he lent
his art to the commemoration of her material prosperity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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