Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Jackson Hole (Wyo.)
A glorious night, moon in the full, but empty stomachs. We are now far
enough away from the lakes to be clear of the clouds of vapor and
local snow storms. Our camp is about at a central point with reference
to obtaining a view of the Tetons, and at a distance of fifteen miles
from the nearest part of the range. (Distance actually about 7 miles,
Doane’s estimate inaccurate.) The moonlight view was one of
unspeakable grandeur. There are twenty-two summits in the line, all of
them mighty mountains, with the gleaming spire of Mount Hayden rising
in a pinnacle above all. The whole range is of naked rock in vast
glittering masses, mostly coarse granites, but with some carboniferous
and metamorphose rocks, the splendid colorings of these sheeted as
they were with ice, contrasted finely with the snowy masses in all
places where the snow would lie, and with the sombre depths of the
great avalanche channels and mighty canyons. Of the latter the
grandest is the Teton (Cascade Canyon) which half surrounds Mount
Hayden, is four thousand feet deep, where it opens out into the valley
in front of us, has a splendid torrent of roaring cascades in its
channel and a baby glacier still at its head. The wide valley in
front, seamed with rocky channels and heaped with moraines, is a grim,
ruinous landscape. There are no foothills to the Tetons. They rise
suddenly in rugged majesty from the rock strewn plain. Masses of heavy
forests appear on the glacial debris and in parks behind the curves of
the lower slopes, but the general field of vision is glittering,
glaciated rock. The soft light floods the great expanse of the valley,
the winding silvery river and the resplendent, deeply carved mountain
walls. The vast masses of Neve on the upper ledges from their lofty
resting places shine coldly down, and stray masses of clouds, white
and fleecy, cast deep shadows over land and terrace, forest and
stream. And later on when the moon had gone down in exaggerated volume
behind the glorified spire of the Grand Teton (Doane must have used
the names Mount Hayden and Grand Teton interchangeably) the stars
succeeded with their myriad sparkling lights, and these blazed up in
setting on the sharpcut edges of the great, serrated wall like Indian
signal fires in successive spectral flashes, rising and dying out by
hundreds as the hours passed on. On the wide continent of North
America there is no mountain group to compare in scenic splendor with
the Great Tetons. There was not a pound of food in camp. We ate the
last beans for supper, before going out to make notes on the Teton
view.
MAP OF THE REGION
[Illustration: CENTRAL ROCKY MOUNTAINS]
..... COLTER’S PROBABLE ROUTE, 1807-08
- - - DOANE’S EXPEDITION
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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