Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Jackson Hole (Wyo.)
In the light of Colter’s own later attempt to trace his route for
Captain Clark, and through our knowledge of today’s maps, it can be
assumed, with a fair degree of reliability, that he moved across country
to Pryor’s Fork, up that stream and down Gap Creek to its junction with
the Big Horn, thence up the Big Horn to the Shoshone (Stinking Water).
He followed the course of the Shoshone upstream to the vicinity of what
is now Cody, Wyoming, and along the base of the Absaroka Mountains into
the Wind River Valley, striking the Wind probably some distance south
and east of present day Dubois.
It appears that it was on the Stinking Water that Colter discovered the
area which his contemporaries of the trapping fraternity derisively
named “Colter’s Hell,” after Colter’s description of the thermal
features there. Historians writing many years later, perhaps more
romantically than accurately, attributed Colter’s reference to one or
more of the now famous geyser and hot springs sections of the
Yellowstone. It makes a better story thus, but the preponderance of
evidence from the accounts of the trappers themselves places “Colter’s
Hell” in the vicinity of the DeMaris Springs, near Cody. Geological
indications are that the area was much more active, insofar as thermal
phenomena are concerned, then than now.
Two excellent early authorities confirm this location of “Colter’s
Hell.” As set forth in Burton Harris’ _John Colter, His Years in the
Rockies_:
As late as 1848, the accomplished Belgian priest, Father DeSmet,
placed Colter’s Hell on the Stinking Water on the strength of
information obtained from the few trappers who were left in the
mountains at that date. The courageous priest, known as “Black Robe”
to the Indians, was on his way to visit the Sioux in 1848 when he
wrote the following account: “Near the source of the River Puante
(Stinking Water, now called Shoshone) which empties into the Big Horn,
and the sulphurous waters of which have probably the same medicinal
qualities as the celebrated Blue Lick Springs of Kentucky, is a place
called Colter’s Hell—from a beaver hunter of that name. This locality
is often agitated with subterranean fires. The sulphurous gases which
escape in great volumes from the burning soil infect the atmosphere
for several miles, and render the earth so barren that even the wild
wormwood cannot grow on it. The beaver hunters have assured me that
the frequent underground noises and explosions are frightful.”
Washington Irving, in _The Rocky Mountains_: (1837) says:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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