Campobello: An Historical SketchWells, Kate Gannett
History
Campobello: An Historical Sketch
Wells, Kate Gannett
Campobello Island (N.B.)
=Head Harbor.= The longest drive on the Island is to Head Harbor,--the
Queen's Highway, as it is called,--past Cold Spring, Cranberry and
Bunker Hills. Climb both, and you will never forget the view. Drive on
past Conroy's Bridge, the schoolhouses, the church, Wilson's settlement
(where do not fail to buy sticks of checkerberry candy), up and down the
hills to Head Harbor River (where, report says, the Admiral once built a
brig), to Head Harbor Beach, and there picnic. Then, refreshed by a
lunch, which tastes better in the open air than indoors, walk over to
the Fog Horn House, and, if the tide is right, go down a rocky hill,
across a rocky ford, up a short iron ladder and on to Head Harbor
Lighthouse. Never start on any excursion at Campobello until you have
adjusted your hours to the tides, or else your plans will fail.
=Mill Cove.= This waiting upon the tide is of special importance at Mill
Cove, the road to which branches off from Head Harbor road. There is no
place on the Island equal to this for surprises. When the fog is "in"
half of it is non-existent, as it were. At high tide you see an island
which you cannot reach by carriage. At low tide you urge your horse up a
short, pebbly beach, down into the water, and up on to an island. By
permission of its occupant, you drive through his land out into a broad
green field, with the Bay of Fundy fronting you, and the Wolves looking
hopelessly lonely. Give a whole day to the weird and sunny beauty of the
cove and its nooks.
=Nancy Head.= Between Mill and Schooner Coves are the White Rocks and
Nancy Head, so called from a ship that was wrecked there.
=Schooner Cove.= Schooner Cove is another surprise, but a single one.
After you have reached it, put on your rubbers and take the mile walk to
the left along the cliffs. Ten years ago it was the most solemn trail
that you could follow. Now, as civilization has come nearer, and
sunlight has penetrated it, the grey moss hangs less heavily from the
close branches, leafless even in summer, while the water dashes up over
the rocks on the other side of the narrow path. On the right of the cove
go with care, and at your peril, over the headlands, along the coves,
and in through the almost untrodden forest to Herring Cove.
Here is the longest beach in Campobello, with curiously tinted and
marked pebbles. It is but a mile through the woods, starting from the
Tyn-Y-Coed, and is the favorite walk and drive of all those who like
smooth and shady roads and an air laden with "spicy fragrance." On the
left is Eastern Head, never to be forgotten as a place of exploration,
with wonderful views from its points and down its ravines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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