Canada and NewfoundlandCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Canada and Newfoundland
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Canada -- Description and travel; Newfoundland and Labrador -- Description and travel
The Newfoundland coast greatly resembles that of Norway. Looking
shoreward, we see great headlands jutting out into the ocean, their
precipitous sides rising straight out of the water for three or four
hundred feet. Between them are deep bays and inlets, walled with
sheer rock. At the heads of the coves and smaller bays we can see the
white houses of little villages, clinging to the hillsides above tiny
beaches. On top, these great rock ridges are covered with low scrub,
now in red and brown autumn dress.
Now we are approaching St. John’s, which has one of the famous natural
harbours of the world. Our steamer heads for what seems an unbroken
wall of rock, five hundred feet high, and surmounted by a mighty stone
tower. This is Cabot Tower, erected to commemorate the discovery of
Newfoundland in 1497 by John Cabot, the Venetian mariner commissioned
by Henry VII of England to find him new dominions. Except for the
Vikings, five centuries earlier, Cabot was really the first to discover
the North American continent, as Columbus did not reach the mainland
until some years later.
Just south of the Cabot Tower is Cape Spear, the “farthest east” point
of all North America. It was on these hills that Marconi received the
first wireless message flashed across the Atlantic, and from them that
the first transatlantic hydroplane flight was begun. On these shores,
also, several of our transatlantic cables are landed.
[Illustration: Like pirate ships of old, icebergs in spring hover about
the rock-bound entrance to St. John’s harbour. The channel is so narrow
that the French once closed it to the British ships by a chain from
shore to shore.]
But see, there is an opening in the wall of rock straight ahead, and
we get a glimpse of the harbour and the city beyond. The passage is
only six hundred feet wide, and it seems much less from the deck of our
steamer. Here the French, during their brief possession of St. John’s,
slung chains across the Narrows to prevent the entrance of enemy ships.
Inside the Narrows, the harbour is about a mile long and one half as
wide. It is fringed with a forest of masts and the smokestacks of
steamers. On the right is St. John’s. The hill on which it is built
rises so steeply from the water that we can see the whole sides of
buildings, one above the other along the terraced streets. The painted
brick or wooden structures give the city a rather drab appearance,
which is emphasized by the absence of shade trees. This is partly
because the town has been burned three times, the last time in 1892.
Across the harbour the red and brown hillside is gashed here and
there with the slate gray of stone pits, or splotched with fenced-in
patches of green, so steep that it is hard to imagine how they are
farmed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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