Charles I came here with his fifteen-year-old bride; Charles II was
gracious at considerable expense to the citizens, and brought as his
Archbishop the faithful Juxon, who had been chaplain on the fatal day
at Whitehall and had received the mystic word "Remember"; Elizabeth in
her haughty way was "exceeding magnifical" at the charges of
Archbishop Parker, whose wife she declined to call Madam, since
clergymen had no business with wives. The little square has also
humbler associations. It has been a bull-ring, where the poor beasts
were baited "to make them man's meat and fit to be eaten". It has had
a beautifully carved Market Cross, which gave place to the doubtful
memorial to Marlowe. The massive oaken doors bear Juxon's coat of
arms, for he set them up in place of those destroyed by the Puritans.
They are open; let us pass to the object of our pilgrimage, the great
Cathedral whose builders built better than they knew, and left for all
time a history of this land and its faith, written and illuminated in
stone.
THE CATHEDRAL
Once within Christ Church Gate, and in view of the whole southern side
of the Cathedral, we may pause for a moment and enjoy the vision. That
central tower, surely for dignity and beauty without its peer in the
land, took from first to last fifty years in the building, and was
christened from its first stone the Angel Steeple, from the figure
with which it was to be crowned, though now, the Angel having taken
flight, it is usually known as Bell Harry, from the great bell hung in
it. Mark in the sunshine (for it is a sunny day) the depth and variety
of shadows and lights on its moulded and sculptured surface. Not
without pity and indignation do we read that Goldwell, the last of the
priors who built the gatehouse and completed the tower, begged in
vain, when a palsied old man, at the dissolution of the convent, to be
continued in his old home as the first Dean. Nicholas Wotton, a wily
monk not of the fraternity, whose stone effigy you will see kneeling
in the Trinity Chapel, was appointed in his stead.
After Bell Harry, the next place in our admiration is due to the
Norman staircase-turret, somewhat farther east, with arcading so fine
and decorative as to remind us of arabesque. This turret, with its
fellow on the north side, and the ruined staircase in the Green Court,
are Norman work unsurpassed anywhere. The fivelight Decorated window
of St. Anselm's Chapel is believed by well-qualified judges to be the
most beautiful instance of early fourteenth-century tracery in the
country. It is, of course, much later than the chapel, and was
inserted, in 1336, by Prior Oxenden, whose account states the cost at
£42, or about £650 of our money, all given by himself and his friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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