The walls, of course, have been patched and repaired many times, but
are, especially in the chancel, full of Roman bricks and Saxon
workmanship. There are indications that some of the courses were
actually laid by Roman hands; and, if this be so, imagination may
carry us back far earlier than Augustine, to the legend that Joseph of
Arimathea brought the Gospel to Britain within a generation of the
death of Our Lord.
[Illustration: MERCERY LANE
(_Page 21_)]
On our way back to the town, if we step inside the Infirmary grounds,
we shall see the ruins of St. Pancras, built, it is said, by Augustine
on the foundations of an "Idol-temple" where Ethelbert worshipped
before his conversion. Roman bricks abound, Roman pillars are built
into the wall, and there are still the remains of an altar in a tiny
chapel where probably Augustine officiated.
Now we may return to the "Chequers of the Hope", but not to its
dormitory of a hundred beds. There is a fine frankness, far removed
from modern municipal ambition, in the names of these old streets.
Mercery Lane, Butchery Lane, Wincheap (Wine Market), and Beer-Cart
Lane tell their own story. As we look down narrow, crooked Mercery
Lane, with its overhanging fronts, struggling to survive
"improvements", we not only recognize "the last enchantments of the
Middle Age", but we ask what kind of mercery used to stock the stalls
under the arcades which once sheltered the sidewalks? Chiefly, no
doubt, cheap memorials or "signs" of the accomplished pilgrimage; the
little leaden bottles or "ampulles", containing water from the well
near Becket's tomb in the crypt, and the infinitesimal tincture
therein of the martyr's blood; also leaden brooches representing his
mitred head. "These signs", says Dean Stanley, "they fastened on their
hats or caps, or hung from their necks, and thus were henceforth
distinguished. As the pilgrims from Compostella brought home the
scallop-shells which still lie on the seashores of Gallicia--as the
'Palmers' from Palestine brought the palm-branches still given at the
Easter Pilgrimage--as the 'roamers' from Rome brought models of St.
Peter's keys, or a 'Vernicle'--that is a pattern of Veronica's
handkerchief--sewed on their caps--so the Canterbury Pilgrim had his
hat thickset with a 'hundred ampulles' or with leaden brooches. Many
of these are said to have been found in the beds of the Stour and the
Thames, dropped as the vast concourse departed from Canterbury or
reached London."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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