After threading a swamp full of boxberry, and climbing several hills
covered with shrub-oaks, without a path, where shipwrecked men would be
in danger of perishing in the night, we came down upon the eastern
extremity of the four planks which run the whole length of Provincetown
street. This, which is the last town on the Cape, lies mainly in one
street along the curving beach fronting the southeast. The sand-hills,
covered with shrubbery and interposed with swamps and ponds, rose
immediately behind it in the form of a crescent, which is from half a
mile to a mile or more wide in the middle, and beyond these is the
desert, which is the greater part of its territory, stretching to the
sea on the east and west and north. The town is compactly built in the
narrow space, from ten to fifty rods deep, between the harbor and the
sand-hills, and contained at that time about twenty-six hundred
inhabitants. The houses, in which a more modern and pretending style
has at length prevailed over the fisherman’s hut, stand on the inner or
plank side of the street, and the fish and store houses, with the
picturesque-looking windmills of the Salt-works, on the water side. The
narrow portion of the beach between, forming the street, about eighteen
feet wide, the only one where one carriage could pass another, if there
was more than one carriage in the town, looked much “heavier” than any
portion of the beach or the desert which we had walked on, it being
above the reach of the highest tide, and the sand being kept loose by
the occasional passage of a traveller. We learned that the four planks
on which we were walking had been bought by the town’s share of the
Surplus Revenue, the disposition of which was a bone of contention
between the inhabitants, till they wisely resolved thus to put it under
foot. Yet some, it was said, were so provoked because they did not
receive their particular share in money, that they persisted in walking
in the sand a long time after the sidewalk was built. This is the only
instance which I happen to know in which the surplus revenue proved a
blessing to any town. A surplus revenue of dollars from the treasury to
stem the greater evil of a surplus revenue of sand from the ocean. They
expected to make a hard road by the time these planks were worn out.
Indeed, they have already done so since we were there, and have almost
forgotten their sandy baptism.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account