We were now fairly on the Cape, which extends from Sandwich eastward
thirty-five miles, and thence north and northwest thirty more, in all
sixty-five, and has an average breadth of about five miles. In the
interior it rises to the height of two hundred, and sometimes perhaps
three hundred feet above the level of the sea. According to Hitchcock,
the geologist of the State, it is composed almost entirely of sand,
even to the depth of three hundred feet in some places, though there is
probably a concealed core of rock a little beneath the surface, and it
is of diluvian origin, excepting a small portion at the extremity and
elsewhere along the shores, which is alluvial. For the first half of
the Cape large blocks of stone are found, here and there, mixed with
the sand, but for the last thirty miles boulders, or even gravel, are
rarely met with. Hitchcock conjectures that the ocean has, in course of
time, eaten out Boston Harbor and other bays in the mainland, and that
the minute fragments have been deposited by the currents at a distance
from the shore, and formed this sand-bank. Above the sand, if the
surface is subjected to agricultural tests, there is found to be a thin
layer of soil gradually diminishing from Barnstable to Truro, where it
ceases; but there are many holes and rents in this weather-beaten
garment not likely to be stitched in time, which reveal the naked flesh
of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare.
I at once got out my book, the eighth volume of the Collections of the
Massachusetts Historical Society, printed in 1802, which contains some
short notices of the Cape towns, and began to read up to where I was,
for in the cars I could not read as fast as I travelled. To those who
came from the side of Plymouth, it said: “After riding through a body
of woods, twelve miles in extent, interspersed with but few houses, the
settlement of Sandwich appears, with a more agreeable effect, to the
eye of the traveller.” Another writer speaks of this as a _beautiful_
village. But I think that our villages will bear to be contrasted only
with one another, not with Nature. I have no great respect for the
writer’s taste, who talks easily about beautiful villages, embellished,
perchance, with a “fulling-mill,” “a handsome academy,” or
meeting-house, and “a number of shops for the different mechanic arts”;
where the green and white houses of the gentry, drawn up in rows, front
on a street of which it would be difficult to tell whether it is most
like a desert or a long stable-yard. Such spots can be beautiful only
to the weary traveller, or the returning native,—or, perchance, the
repentant misanthrope; not to him who, with unprejudiced senses, has
just come out of the woods, and approaches one of them, by a bare road,
through a succession of straggling homesteads where he cannot tell
which is the alms-house. However, as for Sandwich, I cannot speak
particularly. Ours was but half a Sandwich at most, and that must have
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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