We got what we could out of the boys in the meanwhile. Provincetown
boys are of course all sailors and have sailors’ eyes. When we were at
the Highland Light the last summer, seven or eight miles from
Provincetown Harbor, and wished to know one Sunday morning if the
_Olata_, a well-known yacht, had got in from Boston, so that we could
return in her, a Provincetown boy about ten years old, who chanced to
be at the table, remarked that she had. I asked him how he knew. “I
just saw her come in,” said he. When I expressed surprise that he could
distinguish her from other vessels so far, he said that there were not
so many of those two-topsail schooners about but that he could tell
her. Palfrey said, in his oration at Barnstable, the duck does not take
to the water with a surer instinct than the Barnstable boy. [He might
have said the Cape Cod boy as well.] He leaps from his leading-strings
into the shrouds, it is but a bound from the mother’s lap to the
masthead. He boxes the compass in his infant soliloquies. He can hand,
reef, and steer by the time he flies a kite.
This was the very day one would have chosen to sit upon a hill
overlooking sea and land, and muse there. The mackerel fleet was
rapidly taking its departure, one schooner after another, and standing
round the Cape, like fowls leaving their roosts in the morning to
disperse themselves in distant fields. The turtle-like sheds of the
salt-works were crowded into every nook in the hills, immediately
behind the town, and their now idle windmills lined the shore. It was
worth the while to see by what coarse and simple chemistry this almost
necessary of life is obtained, with the sun for journeyman, and a
single apprentice to do the chores for a large establishment. It is a
sort of tropical labor, pursued too in the sunniest season; more
interesting than gold or diamond-washing, which, I fancy, it somewhat
resembles at a distance. In the production of the necessaries of life
Nature is ready enough to assist man. So at the potash works which I
have seen at Hull, where they burn the stems of the kelp and boil the
ashes. Verily, chemistry is not a splitting of hairs when you have got
half a dozen raw Irishmen in the laboratory. It is said, that owing to
the reflection of the sun from the sand-hills, and there being
absolutely no fresh water emptying into the harbor, the same number of
superficial feet yields more salt here than in any other part of the
county. A little rain is considered necessary to clear the air, and
make salt fast and good, for as paint does not dry, so water does not
evaporate in dog-day weather. But they were now, as elsewhere on the
Cape, breaking up their salt-works and selling them for lumber.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account