From that elevation we could overlook the operations of the inhabitants
almost as completely as if the roofs had been taken off. They were
busily covering the wicker-worked flakes about their houses with salted
fish, and we now saw that the back yards were improved for this purpose
as much as the front; where one man’s fish ended another’s began. In
almost every yard we detected some little building from which these
treasures were being trundled forth and systematically spread, and we
saw that there was an art as well as a knack even in spreading fish,
and that a division of labor was profitably practised. One man was
withdrawing his fishes a few inches beyond the nose of his neighbor’s
cow which had stretched her neck over a paling to get at them. It
seemed a quite domestic employment, like drying clothes, and indeed in
some parts of the county the women take part in it.
I noticed in several places on the Cape a sort of clothes-_flakes_.
They spread brush on the ground, and fence it round, and then lay their
clothes on it, to keep them from the sand. This is a Cape Cod
clothes-yard.
The sand is the great enemy here. The tops of some of the hills were
enclosed and a board put up, forbidding all persons entering the
enclosure, lest their feet should disturb the sand, and set it
a-blowing or a-sliding. The inhabitants are obliged to get leave from
the authorities to cut wood behind the town for fish-flakes,
bean-poles, pea-brush, and the like, though, as we were told, they may
transplant trees from one part of the township to another without
leave. The sand drifts like snow, and sometimes the lower story of a
house is concealed by it, though it is kept off by a wall. The houses
were formerly built on piles, in order that the driving sand might pass
under them. We saw a few old ones here still standing on their piles,
but they were boarded up now, being protected by their younger
neighbors. There was a school-house, just under the hill on which we
sat, filled with sand up to the tops of the desks, and of course the
master and scholars had fled. Perhaps they had imprudently left the
windows open one day, or neglected to mend a broken pane. Yet in one
place was advertised “Fine sand for sale here,”—I could hardly believe
my eyes,—probably some of the street sifted,—a good instance of the
fact that a man confers a value on the most worthless thing by mixing
himself with it, according to which rule we must have conferred a value
on the whole back-side of Cape Cod;—but I thought that if they could
have advertised “Fat Soil,” or perhaps “Fine sand got rid of,” ay, and
“Shoes emptied here,” it would have been more alluring. As we looked
down on the town, I thought that I saw one man, who probably lived
beyond the extremity of the planking, steering and tacking for it in a
sort of snow-shoes, but I may have been mistaken. In some pictures of
Provincetown the persons of the inhabitants are not drawn below the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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