It is remarkable that the Pilgrims (or their reporter) describe this
part of the Cape, not only as well wooded, but as having a deep and
excellent soil, and hardly mention the word _sand_. Now what strikes
the voyager is the barrenness and desolation of the land. _They_ found
“the ground or earth sand-hills, much like the downs in Holland, but
much better the crust of the earth, a spit’s depth, excellent black
earth.” _We_ found that the earth had lost its crust,—if, in-deed, it
ever had any,—and that there was no soil to speak of. We did not see
enough black earth in Provincetown to fill a flower-pot, unless in the
swamps. They found it “all wooded with oaks, pines, sassafras, juniper,
birch, holly, vines, some ash, walnut; the wood for the most part open
and without underwood, fit either to go or ride in.” We saw scarcely
anything high enough to be called a tree, except a little low wood at
the east end of the town, and the few ornamental trees in its
yards,—only a few small specimens of some of the above kinds on the
sand-hills in the rear; but it was all thick shrubbery, without any
large wood above it, very unfit either to go or ride in. The greater
part of the land was a perfect desert of yellow sand, rippled like
waves by the wind, in which only a little Beach-grass grew here and
there. They say that, just after passing the head of East Harbor Creek,
the boughs and bushes “tore” their “very armor in pieces” (the same
thing happened to such armor as we wore, when out of curiosity we took
to the bushes); or they came to deep valleys, “full of brush,
wood-gaile, and long grass,” and “found springs of fresh water.”
For the most part we saw neither bough nor bush, not so much as a shrub
to tear our clothes against if we would, and a sheep would lose none of
its fleece, even if it found herbage enough to make fleece grow there.
We saw rather beach and poverty-grass, and merely sorrel enough to
color the surface. I suppose, then, by Woodgaile they mean the
Bayberry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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