Captain John Sears, of Suet, was the first person in this country who
obtained pure marine salt by solar evaporation alone; though it had
long been made in a similar way on the coast of France, and elsewhere.
This was in the year 1776, at which time, on account of the war, salt
was scarce and dear. The Historical Collections contain an interesting
account of his experiments, which we read when we first saw the roofs
of the salt-works. Barnstable county is the most favorable locality for
these works on our northern coast,—there is so little fresh water here
emptying into ocean. Quite recently there were about two millions of
dollars invested in this business here. But now the Cape is unable to
compete with the importers of salt and the manufacturers of it at the
West, and, accordingly, her salt-works are fast going to decay. From
making salt, they turn to fishing more than ever. The Gazetteer will
uniformly tell you, under the head of each town, how many go a-fishing,
and the value of the fish and oil taken, how much salt is made and
used, how many are engaged in the coasting trade, how many in
manufacturing palm-leaf hats, leather, boots, shoes, and tinware, and
then it has done, and leaves you to imagine the more truly domestic
manufactures which are nearly the same all the world over.
Late in the afternoon, we rode through Brewster, so named after Elder
Brewster, for fear he would be forgotten else. Who has not heard of
Elder Brewster? Who knows who he was? This appeared to be the
modern-built town of the Cape, the favorite residence of retired
sea-captains. It is said that “there are more masters and mates of
vessels which sail on foreign voyages belonging to this place than to
any other town in the country.” There were many of the modern American
houses here, such as they turn out at Cambridgeport, standing on the
sand; you could almost swear that they had been floated down Charles
River, and drifted across the Bay. I call them American, because they
are paid for by Americans, and “put up” by American carpenters; but
they are little removed from lumber; only Eastern stuff disguised with
white paint, the least interesting kind of drift-wood to me. Perhaps we
have reason to be proud of our naval architecture, and need not go to
the Greeks, or the Goths, or the Italians, for the models of our
vessels. Sea-captains do not employ a Cambridgeport carpenter to build
their floating houses, and for their houses on shore, if they must copy
any, it would be more agreeable to the imagination to see one of their
vessels turned bottom upward, in the Numidian fashion. We read that,
“at certain seasons, the reflection of the sun upon the windows of the
houses in Wellfleet and Truro (across the inner side of the elbow of
the Cape) is discernible with the naked eye, at a distance of eighteen
miles and upward, on the county road.” This we were pleased to imagine,
as we had not seen the sun for twenty-four hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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