There were, here and there, heaps of shells in the fields, where clams
had been opened for bait; for Orleans is famous for its shell-fish,
especially clams, or, as our author says, “to speak more properly,
worms.” The shores are more fertile than the dry land. The inhabitants
measure their crops, not only by bushels of corn, but by barrels of
clams. A thousand barrels of clam-bait are counted as equal in value to
six or eight thousand bushels of Indian corn, and once they were
procured without more labor or expense, and the supply was thought to
be inexhaustible. “For,” runs the history, “after a portion of the
shore has been dug over, and almost all the clams taken up, at the end
of two years, it is said, they are as plenty there as ever. It is even
affirmed by many persons, that it is as necessary to stir the clam
ground frequently as it is to hoe a field of potatoes; because, if this
labor is omitted, the clams will be crowded too closely together, and
will be prevented from increasing in size.” But we were told that the
small clam, _Mya arenaria_, was not so plenty here as formerly.
Probably the clam ground has been stirred too frequently, after all.
Nevertheless, one man, who complained that they fed pigs with them and
so made them scarce, told me that he dug and opened one hundred and
twenty-six dollars’ worth in one winter, in Truro.
[Illustration: Nauset Bay]
We crossed a brook, not more than fourteen rods long, between Orleans
and Eastham, called Jeremiah’s Gutter. The Atlantic is said sometimes
to meet the Bay here, and isolate the northern part of the Cape. The
streams of the Cape are necessarily formed on a minute scale, since
there is no room for them to run, without tumbling immediately into the
sea; and beside, we found it difficult to run ourselves in that sand,
when there was no want of room. Hence, the least channel where water
runs, or may run, is important, and is dignified with a name. We read
that there is no running water in Chatham, which is the next town. The
barren aspect of the land would hardly be believed if described. It was
such soil, or rather land, as, to judge from appearances, no farmer in
the interior would think of cultivating, or even fencing. Generally,
the ploughed fields of the Cape look white and yellow, like a mixture
of salt and Indian meal. This is called soil. All an inlander’s notions
of soil and fertility will be confounded by a visit to these parts, and
he will not be able, for some time afterward, to distinguish soil from
sand. The historian of Chatham says of a part of that town, which has
been gained from the sea: “There is a doubtful appearance of a soil
beginning to be formed. It is styled _doubtful_, because it would not
be observed by every eye, and perhaps not acknowledged by many.” We
thought that this would not be a bad description of the greater part of
the Cape. There is a “beach” on the west side of Eastham, which we
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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