Early in the afternoon we reached the Highland Light, whose white tower
we had seen rising out of the bank in front of us for the last mile or
two. It is fourteen miles from the Nauset Lights, on what is called the
Clay Pounds, an immense bed of clay abutting on the Atlantic, and, as
the keeper told us, stretching quite across the Cape, which is here
only about two miles wide. We perceived at once a difference in the
soil, for there was an interruption of the desert, and a slight
appearance of a sod under our feet, such as we had not seen for the
last two days.
After arranging to lodge at the light-house, we rambled across the Cape
to the Bay, over a singularly bleak and barren-looking country,
consisting of rounded hills and hollows, called by geologists diluvial
elevations and depressions,—a kind of scenery which has been compared
to a chopped sea, though this suggests too sudden a transition. There
is a delineation of this very landscape in Hitchcock’s Report on the
Geology of Massachusetts, a work which, by its size at least, reminds
one of a diluvial elevation itself. Looking southward from the
light-house, the Cape appeared like an elevated plateau, sloping very
regularly, though slightly, downward from the edge of the bank on the
Atlantic side, about one hundred and fifty feet above the ocean, to
that on the Bay side. On traversing this we found it to be interrupted
by broad valleys or gullies, which become the hollows in the bank when
the sea has worn up to them. They are commonly at right angles with the
shore, and often extend quite across the Cape. Some of the valleys,
however, are circular, a hundred feet deep without any outlet, as if
the Cape had sunk in those places, or its sands had run out. The few
scattered houses which we passed, being placed at the bottom of the
hollows for shelter and fertility, were, for the most part, concealed
entirely, as much as if they had been swallowed up in the earth. Even a
village with its meeting-house, which we had left little more than a
stone’s throw behind, had sunk into the earth, spire and all, and we
saw only the surface of the upland and the sea on either hand. When
approaching it, we had mistaken the belfry for a summer-house on the
plain. We began to think that we might tumble into a village before we
were aware of it, as into an ant-lion’s hole, and be drawn into the
sand irrecoverably. The most conspicuous objects on the land were a
distant windmill, or a meeting-house standing alone, for only they
could afford to occupy an exposed place. A great part of the township,
however, is a barren, heath-like plain, and perhaps one third of it
lies in common, though the property of individuals. The author of the
old “Description of Truro,” speaking of the soil, says: “The snow,
which would be of essential service to it provided it lay level and
covered the ground, is blown into drifts and into the sea.” This
peculiar open country, with here and there a patch of shrubbery,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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