The inhabitants of these towns have a great regard for a tree, though
their standard for one is necessarily neither large nor high; and when
they tell you of the large trees that once grew here, you must think of
them, not as absolutely large, but large compared with the present
generation. Their “brave old oaks,” of which they speak with so much
respect, and which they will point out to you as relics of the
primitive forest, one hundred or one hundred and fifty, ay, for aught
they know, two hundred years old, have a ridiculously dwarfish
appearance, which excites a smile in the beholder. The largest and most
venerable which they will show you in such a case are, perhaps, not
more than twenty or twenty-five feet high. I was especially amused by
the Liliputian old oaks in the south part of Truro. To the
inexperienced eye, which appreciated their proportions only, they might
appear vast as the tree which saved his royal majesty, but measured,
they were dwarfed at once almost into lichens which a deer might eat up
in a morning. Yet they will tell you that large schooners were once
built of timber which grew in Wellfleet. The old houses also are built
of the timber of the Cape; but instead of the forests in the midst of
which they originally stood, barren heaths, with poverty-grass for
heather, now stretch away on every side. The modern houses are built of
what is called “dimension timber,” _imported_ from Maine, all ready to
be set up, so that commonly they do not touch it again with an axe.
Almost all the wood used for fuel is imported by vessels or currents,
and of course all the coal. I was told that probably a quarter of the
fuel and a considerable part of the lumber used in North Truro was
drift-wood. Many get _all_ their fuel from the beach.
Of birds not found in the interior of the State,—at least in my
neighborhood,—I heard, in the summer, the Black-throated Bunting
(_Fringilla Americana_) amid the shrubbery, and in the open land the
Upland Plover (_Totanus Bartramius_), whose quivering notes were ever
and anon prolonged into a clear, somewhat plaintive, yet hawk-like
scream, which sounded at a very indefinite distance. The bird may have
been in the next field, though it sounded a mile off.
To-day we were walking through Truro, a town of about eighteen hundred
inhabitants. We had already come to Pamet River, which empties into the
Bay. This was the limit of the Pilgrims’ journey up the Cape from
Provincetown, when seeking a place for settlement. It rises in a hollow
within a few rods of the Atlantic, and one who lives near its source
told us that in high tides the sea leaked through, yet the wind and
waves preserve intact the barrier between them, and thus the whole
river is steadily driven westward butt-end foremost,—fountain-head,
channel, and light-house at the mouth, all together.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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