To the fisherman, the Cape itself is a sort of store-ship laden with
supplies,—a safer and larger craft which carries the women and
children, the old men and the sick; and indeed sea-phrases are as
common on it as on board a vessel. Thus is it ever with a sea-going
people. The old Northmen used to speak of the “keel-ridge” of the
country, that is, the ridge of the Doffrafield Mountains, as if the
land were a boat turned bottom up. I was frequently reminded of the
Northmen here. The inhabitants of the Cape are often at once farmers
and sea-rovers; they are more than vikings or kings of the bays, for
their sway extends over the open sea also. A farmer in Wellfleet, at
whose house I afterward spent a night, who had raised fifty bushels of
potatoes the previous year, which is a large crop for the Cape, and had
extensive salt-works, pointed to his schooner, which lay in sight, in
which he and his man and boy occasionally ran down the coast a-trading
as far as the Capes of Virginia. This was his market-cart, and his
hired man knew how to steer her. Thus he drove two teams a-field,
“ere the high _seas_ appeared
Under the opening eyelids of the morn.”
Though probably he would not hear much of the “gray fly” on his way to
Virginia.
A great proportion of the inhabitants of the Cape are always thus
abroad about their teaming on some ocean highway or other, and the
history of one of their ordinary trips would cast the Argonautic
expedition into the shade. I have just heard of a Cape Cod captain who
was expected home in the beginning of the winter from the West Indies,
but was long since given up for lost, till his relations at length have
heard with joy, that, after getting within forty miles of Cape Cod
light, he was driven back by nine successive gales to Key West, between
Florida and Cuba, and was once again shaping his course for home. Thus
he spent his winter. In ancient times the adventures of these two or
three men and boys would have been made the basis of a myth, but now
such tales are crowded into a line of shorthand signs, like an
algebraic formula in the shipping news. “Wherever over the world,” said
Palfrey in his oration at Barnstable, “you see the stars and stripes
floating, you may have good hope that beneath them some one will be
found who can tell you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or
Chatham Harbor.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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