Cape Cod (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Cape Cod (Mass.) -- History -- Anecdotes; Cape Cod (Mass.) -- History, Local
Aunt Alice had departed New York on Washington’s Birthday and it was
over three long months before the ship sighted land. Then it was the
rather grim and forbidding bulk of Christmas Island that met their
eyes rather than the soft and familiar outlines of a Cape Cod shore.
Like many another traveller since, they must have felt that the magic
of “Christmas” was a mis-nomer. But there were other lands ahead,
all with surprises of their own. At Java Head a wild and noisy lot
of nearly-naked, native traders swarmed aboard the vessel with live
chickens and fresh fruit to sell and once the girls had conquered their
fears at the strangeness of them they were full of gratitude for the
change in bill-of-fare.
The “Obed Baxter” arrived at Shanghai on June 25, four months out
of New York. The tumult and confusions of that port would have been
startling in any case for the Cape Cod wife and her two small daughters
but it was made more trying by the fact that the Captain’s sudden
illness sent him to a hospital and left his family alone. Cape Cod spunk
showed itself then as it would be called upon to show itself on many
another occasion. Mrs. Baxter gathered her two children and secured
quarters at one of the hotels of the city. From there they visited
the hospital and found time to do some sight seeing as well. What
an experience it must have been, with the mother called upon to act
fearlessly in order to conceal her worst fears from the children! And
all in a land that was many thousands of miles from the peaceful Main
Street of South Dennis and full of strange sights, sounds and smells.
As they walked the streets a horde of beggars, chattering fearfully,
tore at their clothes and pushed against them so that it took the
greatest control not to show fear. On one occasion the first mate
became so infuriated at being jostled about that he pushed a Chinaman
backwards. The coolie fell into a boat, broke his neck and died, and
the mate was arrested and sent to prison. While awaiting trial he
contracted the dreaded cholera that raged throughout the city and died.
Now the father-Captain was ill and his First Mate dead, and the three
Cape women were more alone than ever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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