Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The other large monastery in St. Petersburg, Smolni, by the bend in the
river, has buildings surrounding two huge courts which are made very
pleasant by trees. The first, which is much the larger, has a covered
cloister all round and a high dome in each corner. The centre of the
western side is left open to expose to the street the chief façade of
the church, which, like the Chantry at Winchester, stands detached
in the centre of the court. It is a simple and impressive Italian
Renaissance building, 245 feet long, with pilasters on two levels and
in the centre a lofty tower, open to the top within. The interior is
all white, some marble shafts giving relief to the eternal plaster.
Designed by Rastrelli in 1734, the structure follows the type of his
native country, except that five great onion domes mark as Russian the
top of the tower. The faults of the building are glaring enough, but
Fergusson seems rather severe in his remark: "It would be difficult to
find in Europe anything so really bad as this."
[143] Its dimensions are 731 by 584 feet. There are three stories with
pilasters on two levels, but the architrave bends over each of the
upper windows, and the consequent loss of the horizontal line that
is of the very essence of Classic architecture, is absolutely fatal
to the effect. Several halls and other chambers within are extremely
magnificent, but the most glorious columns of marble support gilded
capitals of plaster, and there is a good deal to justify Fergusson's
observation about a man of taste recoiling in horror from such a
piece of barbaric magnificence. The chapel is frankly Russian with
the customary onion dome. The figures of the eikonastasis stand out
detached, though the Eastern Church as a rule holds anything more than
very slight relief as a breach of the Second Commandment. This little
building contains some priceless relics, hands of the Baptist and of
the Virgin, a fragment of the body of St. George, a piece of the true
cross, a picture painted by St. Luke! There are relics nearer our own
day in the chamber where the second Alexander died in 1881, after being
wounded by the bomb (p. 253). His empty study chair, the books as he
left them on the table, the few coins in his pocket when he went out
for the last time, his unfinished cigarette, his coat thrown over the
back of a chair, the couch on which he passed away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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