Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
[144] This structure is more Greek in design, the architect was Baron
Leo von Klenze, of Munich, and it was erected about the middle of
the nineteenth century. There are two large courts, but one of them
is divided by the great staircase which rises between two rows of
magnificent grey marble columns that support the plaster ceiling; other
portions have a very rich effect from the profusion of coloured marbles
and the beautiful inlaid wood flowers which almost give the impression
of mosaic. The lower storey forms a very complete museum, beginning
with ancient Egypt and including many interesting things from different
parts of the Russian Empire. The upper storey, which is higher and much
better lighted, houses the famous collection of pictures.
[145] The reason was that he wanted his people to look more European,
but the Russians held a good deal of the oriental view of the
sacredness of beards, and some preserved their cut-off hairs to be
buried with them and enjoyed in the next world.
[146] This characteristic seems even more apparent among Russians in
the Far East than in their own capital.
[147] The original Patriarchates were those of Jerusalem, Antioch,
Alexandria, Constantinople and Rome. That of Moscow dated from the
sixteenth century.
[148] Each portico has eight huge monolithic columns of red Finland
granite, 56 feet high (bases and Corinthian caps of bronze), to support
the sculptured tympanum, whose figures are in high relief, and is
approached by a stately flight of steps. Except on the east there are
splendid portals with grape patterns in stone and beautiful relief
bronze doors. The side porticoes are deeper than the others and flanked
by turrets for bells. The plan of the church is a simple oblong, 305 by
166 feet. Only four great windows admit light to the interior (except
for a single one behind the altar opening into the eastern portico and
those of the lantern dome), one on each side of the lateral porticoes.
These naturally dwarf the design very much. A rather poorly planned
circular colonnade and iron dome rise through the roof, resting on
four huge piers in the church. The arrangement of the vaulting is made
to suggest the ordinary cruciform plan, with a dome in each corner.
The general effect is extremely rich from the magnificent shafts of
malachite and lapis lazuli, and the lavish decorations of inlaid
marble and mosaic, but nothing can redeem the poverty and commonplace
character of the design. Fergusson calls the building a cold and
unsatisfactory failure, and says there is not a week's thought in the
whole design from pavement to dome cross. This it is not easy to deny,
but there is much to redeem the failure, particularly in the splendour
of the material.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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