Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The other Renaissance buildings of the city are very numerous, and
in many cases very large, but for variety they cannot be said to be
remarkable. Of the foreign architects successively employed, not one
was really good, and decidedly the best buildings on the whole are
those designed by Russians who had mastered the principles of the
foreign style. One of the most successful, by Varonikin, was erected
at the worst possible period--the early nineteenth century. It is the
Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan, an Italian building, 257 feet long.
Inviting colonnades extend from the north transept to the street,
forming a vast semi-circle and suggesting the piazza of St. Peter's.
The portico of the transept appears in the centre with the dome rising
above, and, material apart, this is one of the most successful things
of its kind ever built. Nave and south transept also have porticoes.
The columns throughout the building are in pairs, and within the
effect is most striking from the granite columns that uphold the great
entablature, the lofty flat roofs of the aisles, and the way in which
the lantern rises from arches which terminate the tunnel vaults of the
four arms. Much of the eikonastasis is of silver, and the floor is
marble inlaid.
[149] The centre of gravity of the rearing horse is successfully
preserved in the right place by making the metal almost solid at the
back and quite thin in front. In November, 1770, Rev. J. C. King wrote
to Lord Macartney: "I mean the great stone on which Falconet's statue
is to be placed.... It is ... arrived at St. Petersburg: the Empress
had earrings made of it for herself."
[150] In some parts of the city the soil is of a stiff blue clay.
[151] The bomb-splintered brougham in which he took his last drive is
preserved unrepaired among the Imperial carriages.
[152] Surmounting the central octagon and its four corner turrets,
the west tower, and the three eastern apses. Some are covered with
extraordinary raised glazed tiles, the central one greatly resembling a
turban. The interior is both simpler and better than the outside; four
columns with round arches sustain the central lantern, and round arches
open to apses and tower. The floor is of marble inlaid; walls, piers
and vaults are covered with the most beautiful mosaics in prevailing
colours of blue and gold, saints in four tiers varied by landscapes and
lilies. The old church furniture displayed in the Museum of Alexander
III. seems to show Byzantine forms getting more and more modified
by increasing Tatar influences. In the same place are some very
interesting paintings by Russian artists. Verestchagin has the place
of honour, and is represented by some excellent pictures of battle
scenes, some displaying the French at Moscow. The picture of Abram and
Isaac done by Reutern with his left hand has faces that could hardly be
better.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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