Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
Eric IX. (p. 192) is traditionally connected with the building of the
church. Perhaps to him are owed the plain ribbed vaults, indicated on
the plan by dotted lines. In life he was known as Log-gifware, or Giver
of Laws, and every one of his statutes were good; after death he was
known as saint. With the first primate of Upsala, St. Henry, a man of
English birth, Eric conquered the Finns, and, as this was an attack
on one of the last centres of heathenism in Europe, it ranked as a
crusade. The Swedish saint mourned to see so many pagans slain without
a chance of Heaven, but the English saint was made of sterner stuff and
he refused to weep. All heathen were vermin to him.
He met his end in a most un-English way. The mistress of a house had
expressly refused to invite him to her board, but all the same he
went. In that rude age the conventions of society had not yet been
elaborated, and so, instead of welcoming him with their lips and fuming
in their hearts, the owners of the house sent the unbidden guest into
another world (see p. 213). Nevertheless in Finland he was highly
honoured by the sword-established Church; the cathedral at the old
capital of Abo bears his name and once enshrined his remains. But in
later days (by Count Douglas, p. 238) they were carried in triumph to
St. Petersburg.
Three miles of level plain, still fertile, for the soil is unexhausted
by the tillage of two thousand years, separates Old Upsala from the
town of Östra-aros, which usurped both the name and the archbishopric
in 1276. From a distance its buildings seem to rise from the very
forests in true Swedish style, but when the streets are gained one is
somewhat reminded of Holland. For long rows of trees, largely lime and
horse-chestnut, border the little (river) Fyrisa, which flows unhasting
to the northern end of Mälar, and on the banks are a few picturesque
gabled houses with seventeenth century dates. Trees line many of the
wide streets and partly hide the trolley trams. The great brick
cathedral in the distance too has a certain Flemish look. But all idea
of Holland is expelled by the massive unbeautiful castle standing high
on its wooded cliffs.
This city seems to have a character all its own, largely through
mingling the features of many other towns. Here in the wooded Swedish
plain an English close, a Dutch canal and an American campus seem
somehow or other to have met. The interest of the place centres largely
round the university, which has sheltered no small number of scholars
that the whole world holds great.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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