Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
In Upsala one is vaguely conscious of the existence of that intense
charm, all-pervading yet undefinable, that in Oxford and Cambridge is
so helped by the presence of buildings unrivalled on earth. Here no
crumbling, creeper-covered walls surround garden quadrangles, nor do
elm-shaded lawns slope to a placid river; here are none of the towers
and spires of Isis, nor the deep red Tudor brickwork towers of Cam. The
university was only founded in 1477 by the national leader, Sten Sture
the Elder, who had been chosen administrator of Sweden at the Diet of
Arboga six years before. It possesses no buildings that in themselves
would claim attention for half an hour, though many are attractive from
the well-treed lawns on which they stand. The oldest is called from
the hero king who raised it, the Gustavianum; it is a plain white
structure over which rises a tower capped by a swelling dome that
displays the influence of the East. The new building, finished in 1886,
has a fine central corridor panelled in green marble, and over the door
of the Aula is written (from Thorild) in letters of gold:
Great to think free,
But greater to think right.
One feels the same atmosphere of culture and of high ideal, of youthful
enthusiasm and of joy that makes the two older universities of England
so lovable, though it is produced with so much simpler scenes.
The ungowned, white-capped students,[107] some two thousand of them,
delighting in music and serenades, are organised in thirteen "nations."
These somewhat recall English colleges, for they have buildings of
their own, and somewhat resemble American Greek letter fraternities,
but such likenesses soon leave off and wide differences appear. The
members of the nations are chosen by the accident of birth, for
each includes the students from one or more of the Swedish "läns."
Graduating ceremonies take place in the cathedral, for, as in Oxford
and Cambridge, the university is connected with the church.
The university library is not in the least architecturally striking,
but among its somewhat numerous treasures is the famous _Codex
Argenteus_, written on purple parchment in uncial letters of silver
and gold. It was captured at Prague in 1648 and, as it gives us the
text of Ulfilas' Gothic Bible, no more appropriate home for it could
have been found in the wide world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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