Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten CitiesHannah, Ian C.
History
Capitals of the Northlands: Tales of Ten Cities
Hannah, Ian C.
Capitals (Cities); Russia -- Description and travel; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
In the chief square of Upsala is a statue (by Börjeson) of one of the
most renowned of former professors, Eric Gustaf Geiger (1783-1847),
the poet who with zeal and zest sought to restore respect for native
traditions so long overlaid by fads from France during Gustavian times.
This he took up so seriously that thus, during his very engagement,
wrote his future wife to a friend. Geiger "has become a Goth; instead
of loving me he is in love with Valkyries and shield-bearing maidens,
drinks out of Viking horns, and carries out Viking expeditions--to the
nearest tavern. He writes poems which must not be read in the dark,
they are so full of murders and deeds of slaughter." This is putting it
somewhat crudely, the movement on the whole was very good. It is far
better that each nation should cultivate and develop the traditions
of its own fathers--if any such there be--rather than seek to copy
ready-made the conclusions of another folk. And Sweden has no need to
learn from France.
Geiger's daughter married the Count Hamilton who was Governor of Upsala
during the visit of Du Chaillu (p. 223) and entertained the explorer
in the castle. The Swedish branch of this great Scottish house is
descended from two brothers who, like many other Britishers, offered
their swords to Gustavus Adolphus in 1624. Of the mediæval castle
extremely slight ruins are to be seen; the present heavy and unfinished
round-towered mansion was erected by Gustaf Vasa. In it took place the
picturesque but humiliating ceremony of Christina's abdication of the
throne, to shake the earth of Sweden from her feet and to amuse herself
idly among peoples and courts further south. The best thing about the
castle is the superb view from its windows over the forest town.
The Botanical Gardens were set out by Linnæus himself, rather for
serious study than for display of flowers. The founder of modern
botany, to whom there is a marble statue by Byström, became a professor
at Upsala in 1741 and was laid to rest in one of the chapels of the
cathedral during 1778.
Close to the banks of the river is the Erikskälla, marking the spot
where Eric fell, national saint of Swedes (p. 187). He was canonised by
the Swedish Church, not known at Rome, for the rival house of Sverker
had gotten the ear of the pope. A spring has burst forth from the soil;
such a thing very frequently happens where a saint has breathed his
last. The story of his life is portrayed by mural paintings in one of
the apsidal chapels on the south of the cathedral, the only part of
the building where the brick vaulting-ribs are left exposed. He was at
service in the Bondkyrka, or peasants' church, of the Trinity,[108]
when the Danes made a surprise attack. The devout king refused to leave
till the service came to an end, but soon after, fighting bravely at
the head of his men, he was cut down by victorious foes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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