Castes and Tribes of Southern India. Vol. 6 of 7Thurston, Edgar
History
Castes and Tribes of Southern India. Vol. 6 of 7
Thurston, Edgar
Caste -- India, South; Ethnology -- India, South; India, South -- Social life and customs; Tribes -- India, South
Writing in the eighteenth century, Sonnerat remarks that the weaver
fixes his loom under a tree before his house in the morning, and at
night takes it home. And this observation holds good at the present
day. Weaving operations, as they may be seen going on at weaving
centres in many parts of Southern India, are thus described by
Mr. H. A. Stuart. [129] "The process of weaving is very simple. The
thread is first turned off upon a hand-spindle, and then the warp
is formed. Bamboo sticks, 120 in number, are fixed upright in the
ground, generally in the shade of a tope or grove, at a distance
of a cubit from one another, and ten women or children, carrying
ratnams (spindles) in their hands, walk up and down this line,
one behind the other, intertwining the thread between the bamboos,
until 1,920 threads of various colours, according to the pattern
desired, are thus arranged. For this work each gets half an anna--a
small remuneration for walking four miles. To form a warp sufficient
for eight women's cloths, forty miles have thus to be traversed. In
weaving silk cloths or the finer fabrics, the length of the warp is
less than sixty yards. As soon as the threads have been arranged,
the bamboos are plucked up, and rolled together with the threads
upon them. Trestles are then set out in the tope, and upon them
the warp with the bamboos is stretched horizontally, and sized by
means of large long brushes with ragi starch, and carried along by
two men. This having dried, the whole is rolled up, and placed in
the loom in the weaver's house. The weaving room is a long, narrow,
dark chamber, lighted by one small window close to where the workman
sits. The loom is constructed on the simplest principles, and can be
taken to pieces in a few minutes, forming a light load for a man. The
alternate threads of the warp are raised and depressed, to receive
the woof in the following manner. Two pairs of bamboos are joined
together by thin twine loops, and, being suspended from the roof, are
also joined to two pedals near the floor. Through the joining loops
of one pair of bamboos run half the threads, and through those of
the other run the other half. Thus, by depressing one pedal with the
foot and raising the other, one set of threads is depressed, and the
other raised so as to admit of the woof thread being shot across. This
thread is forced home by a light beam suspended from the roof, and
then, the position of the pedals being reversed, the woof thread is
shot back again between the reversed threads of the warp. In this way
about three yards can be woven in a day." Further Mr. J. D. Rees writes
as follows. [130] "As you enter a weaver's grove, it appears at first
sight as if those occupied in this industry were engaged in a pretty
game. Rows of women walk up and down the shady aisles, each holding
aloft in the left hand a spindle, and in the right a bamboo wand,
through a hook at the end of which the thread is passed. Alongside
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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