Castes and Tribes of Southern India. Vol. 6 of 7Thurston, Edgar
History
Castes and Tribes of Southern India. Vol. 6 of 7
Thurston, Edgar
Caste -- India, South; Ethnology -- India, South; India, South -- Social life and customs; Tribes -- India, South
are split bamboos reaching as high as their hips, and, as they pass,
they unwind the thread from the spindle by means of the wand, and
pass it over each alternate upright. The threads, thus separated,
are subsequently lifted with their bamboo uprights from the ground,
and, while extended from tree to tree in a horizontal position, are
washed with rice-water, and carefully brushed. The threads are now
ready to be made into cloth, and the actual weaving is carried on by
means of primitive hand looms inside the houses."
Weavers, like many other classes in Southern India, are eminently
conservative. Even so trifling an innovation as the introduction
of a new arrangement for maintaining tension in the warp during the
process of weaving gave rise a short time ago to a temporary strike
among the hand-loom weavers at the Madras School of Arts.
For the following note on the weaving industry, I am indebted to
Mr. A. Chatterton. "The hand-weavers may be divided into two great
classes--(1) plain weavers, who weave cloths or fabrics with a single
shuttle, which carries the weft from selvage to selvage; (2) bordered
cloth weavers, who weave cloths in which the threads of the weft of the
portion of the fabric forming the borders are distinct from the threads
of the weft of the main body of the cloth. To manufacture these cloths,
three shuttles are employed, and as yet no successful attempt has been
made to imitate them on the power loom. The bordered cloth weavers do
not suffer from the direct competition of machine-made piece-goods,
and the depression in their branch of the industry is due to changes
in the tastes of the people. [131] In the manufacture of a cloth
from the raw material there are three distinct processes: spinning,
warping, and weaving. Modern machinery has absolutely and completely
ousted hand-spinning; the primitive native methods of warping have
been to a large extent replaced by improved hand-machines, and power
looms have displaced hand looms to some extent; but there is still an
enormous hand-loom industry, some branches of which are in by no means
an unsatisfactory condition. In our efforts to place the hand-weaving
industry on a better footing, we are endeavouring to improve the
primitive methods of indigenous weavers both in regard to warping and
weaving. In respect to weaving we have met with considerable success,
as we have demonstrated that the output of the fly-shuttle loom is
fully double that of the native hand loom, and it is in consequence
slowly making its way in the weaving centres of Southern India. In
respect to warping, no definite solution has yet been effected, and
we are still experimenting. The problem is complicated by the fact
that the output of a warping mill must necessarily be sufficient to
keep at least a hundred hand looms at work, and at the present time
the hand-weaving industry is not organised on any basis, which gives
promise of development into co-operative working on so large a scale as
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