III. AVALLON, VEZELAY, AND CHASTELLUX 36 IV. SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS, ÉPOISSES AND BOURBILLY 50 V. MONTBARD AND BUSSY-RABUTIN 62 VI. "CHASTILLON AU NOBLE DUC" 75 VII. TONNERRE, TANLAY AND ANCY-LE-FRANC 84 VIII. IN OLD BURGUNDY 101 IX. DIJON THE CITY OF THE DUKES 131 X. IN THE COTE D'OR: BEAUNE, LA ROCHEPOT AND ÉPINAC 113 XI. MAÇON, CLUNY AND THE CHAROLLAIS 153 XII. IN THE BEAUJOLAIS AND LYONNAIS 170 XIII. THE FRANCHE COMTÉ; AUXONNE AND BESANÇON 185 XIV. ON THE SWISS BORDER: BUGEY AND BRESSE 199 XV. GRENOBLE AND VIZILLE: THE CAPITAL OF THE DAUPHINS 218 XVI. CHAMBÉRY AND THE LAC DU BOURGET 229 XVII. IN THE SHADOW OF LA GRANDE CHARTREUSE 245 XVIII. ANNECY AND LAC LEMAN 259 XIX. THE MOUNTAIN BACKGROUND OF SAVOY 278 XX. BY THE BANKS OF THE RHÔNE 290 XXI. IN THE ALPS OF DAUPHINY 300 XXII. IN LOWER DAUPHINY 313 INDEX 325 [Illustration: List _of_ ILLUSTRATIONS] PAGE CHATEAU DE MONTBÉLIARD (_see page_ 194) _Frontispiece_ GEOGRAPHICAL LIMITS COVERED BY CONTENTS (Map) x THE HEART OF OLD BURGUNDY (Map) _facing_ 2 CHATEAU DE SAINT FARGEAU _facing_ 28 TOUR GAILLARDE, AUXERRE _facing_ 32 CHATEAU DE CHASTELLUX _facing_ 38 SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS _facing_ 50 CHATEAU D'ÉPOISSES _facing_ 54 ARNAY-LE-DUC _facing_ 60 CHATEAU DE BUSSY-RABUTIN _facing_ 68 CHATEAU DES DUCS, CHÂTILLON _facing_ 76 CHATEAU DE TANLAY _facing_ 90 CHATEAU AND GARDENS OF ANCY-LE-FRANC 94 CHATEAU OF ANCY-LE-FRANC _facing_ 96 MONOGRAMS FROM THE CHAMBRE DES FLEURS 98 BURGUNDY THROUGH THE AGES (Map) 101 THE DIJONNAIS AND THE BEAUJOLAIS (Map) _facing_ 112 KEY OF VAULTING, DIJON 113 CUISINES AT DIJON 119 CHATEAU DES DUCS, DIJON _facing_ 122 CLOS VOUGEOT.--CHAMBERTIN 137 HOSPICE DE BEAUNE _facing_ 144 CHATEAU DE LA ROCHEPOT _facing_ 148 CHATEAU DE SULLY _facing_ 150 CHATEAU DE CHAUMONT-LA-GUICHE _facing_ 154