Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
The Seigneur de Chastellux was one of the most powerful vassals of the
Duc de Bourgogne. By hereditary custom the eldest of each new generation
presented himself before the Bishop of Auxerre clad in a surplice
covering his military accoutrements, and wearing a falcon at his wrist.
In this garb he swore to support Church and State, and for this devotion
was vested in the title of Chanoin d'Auxerre, a title which supposedly
served him in good stead in case of military disaster. It was thus that
the Maréchal de Chastellux, a famous warrior, was, as late as 1792,
also a canon of the cathedral at Auxerre. It was, too, in this grotesque
costume that the Chanoin-Comte d'Chastellux welcomed Louis XIV on a
certain visit to Auxerre. At Auxerre, in the cathedral, one sees a
monument commemorative of the Sires de Chastellux. It was erected by
César de Chastellux under the Restoration, to replace the tomb torn down
by the Chapter in the fifteenth century. This desecration, by churchmen
themselves, one must remember, took place in spite of the fact that a
Chastellux was even then a dignitary of the church.
Chastellux, beyond its magnificent chateau, is an indefinable,
unconvincing little bourg, but from the very moment one sets foot within
its quaintly named Hotel de Maréchal de Chastellux he, or she, is
permeated with the very spirit of romance and mediævalism. The bridge
which crosses the Cure in the middle of the village owns to the ripe old
age of three hundred and fifty years, and is still rendering efficient
service. This is something mature for a bridge, even in France, where
many are doing their daily work as they have for centuries. Will the
modern "suspension" affairs do as well? That's what nobody knows! The
hotel, or
[Illustration: _Chateau de Chastellux_]
_auberge_ rather, can not be less aged than the bridge, though the
manner in which it is conducted is not at all antiquated.
A rocky, jagged pedestal, of a height of perhaps a hundred and fifty
feet, holds aloft the fine mass of the Chateau de Chastellux. For eight
centuries this fine old pile was in the making and, though manifestly
non-contemporary as to its details, it holds itself together in a
remarkably consistent manner and presents an ensemble and silhouette far
more satisfactory to view than many a more popular historic monument of
its class. Its great round towers, their coiffes and the pignons and
gables of the roof, give it all a _cachet_ which is so striking that one
forgives, or ignores the fact that it is after all a work of various
epochs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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