Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
Semur's bourg, donjon and chateau, as the respective quarters of the
town are known, tell the story of its past, but they tell it only by
suggestion. The ancient fortifications, as entire works, have
disappeared, and the chateau has become a barracks or a hospital. Only
the chateau donjon and immediate dependencies, a group of towering
walls, rise grim and silent as of old above the great arch of the bridge
flung so daringly across the Armançon at the bottom of the gorge.
The last proprietor of Semur's chateau was the Marquis du Chatelet, the
husband of the even more celebrated Madame du Chatelet, who held so
great a place in the life of Voltaire. The philosopher, it seems,
resided here for a time, and his room is still kept sacred and shown to
visitors upon application.
Semur as much as anything is a reminder of the past rather than a living
representation of what has gone before. Within the city walls were
enacted many momentous events of state while still it was the Burgundian
capital. Again during the troublous times of the "Ligue," Henri IV
transferred to its old chateau the Parliament which had previously held
its sittings at Dijon.
Semur's monuments deserved a better fate than has befallen them, for
they were magnificent and epoch-making, if not always from an artistic
point of view, at least from an historic one.
We made Semur our headquarters for a little journey to Époisses,
Bourbilly and Montbard, where formerly lived and died the naturalist
Buffon, in the celebrated Chateau de Montbard.
Époisses lies but a few kilometres west of Semur. Its chateau is a
magnificently artistic and historic shrine if there ever was such. In
1677 Madame de Sévigné wrote that she "here descended from her carriage:
_chez son Seigneur d'Époisses_." Here she found herself so comfortably
off that she forgot to go on to Bourbilly, where she was expected and
daily awaited. It was ten days later that she finally moved on; so one
has but the best of opinions regarding the good cheer which was offered
her. At the time it must have been an ideal country house, this mansion
of the Seigneur d'Époisses, as indeed it is to-day. The lady wrote
further: "Here there is the greatest liberty; one reads or walks or
talks or works as he, or she, pleases." This is what everyone desires
and so seldom gets when on a visit. As for the other natural and
artificial charms which surrounded the place, one may well judge by a
contemplation of it to-day.
Here in the chateau, or manor, or whatever manner of rank it actually
takes in one's mind, you may see the room occupied by Madame de Sévigné
on the occasion of her "pleasant visit." It is a "Chambre aux Fleurs" in
truth, and that, too, is the name by which the apartment is officially
known.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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