Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
The Parisians themselves know and love Burgundy perhaps more than any
other of the old mediæval provinces; that is, they seemingly love it for
itself; such minor contempt as they have for a Provençal, a Norman or a
Breton does not exist with regard to a Bourguignon.
Said Michelet: "Burgundy is a country where all are possessed of a
pompous and solemn eloquence." This is a tribute to its men. And he
continued: "It is a country of good livers and joyous seasons"--and this
is an encomium of its bounty.
The men of the modern world who own to Burgundy as their _patrie_ are
almost too numerous to catalogue, but all will recall the names of
Buffon, Guyton de Morveau, Monge and Carnot, Rude, Rameau, Sambin,
Greuze and Prud'hon.
In the arts, too, Burgundy has played its own special part, and if the
chateau-builder did not here run riot as luxuriously as in Touraine, he
at least builded well and left innumerable examples behind which will
please the lover of historic shrines no less than the more florid
Renaissance of the Loire.
In the eighteenth century, the heart of Burgundy was traversed by the
celebrated "_coches d'eau_" which, as a means of transportation for
travellers, was considerably more of an approach to the ideal than the
railway of to-day. These "_coches d'eau_" covered the distance from
Chalon to Lyon via the Saône. One reads in the "Almanach de Lyon et des
Provinces de Lyonnois, Forêz et Beaujolais, pour l'année bissextile
1760," that two of these "_coches_" each week left Lyon, on Mondays and
Thursdays, making the journey to Chalon without interruption via
Trévoux, Mâcon and Tournus. From Lyon to Chalon took the better part of
two and a half days' time, but the descent was accomplished in less than
two days. From Chalon, by "_guimbarde_," it was an affair of eight days
to Paris via Arnay-le-Duc, Saulieu, Vermanton, Auxerre, Joigny and Sens.
By diligence all the way, the journey from the capital to Lyon was made
in five days in summer and six in winter. Says Mercier in his "Tableau
de Paris": "When Sunday came on, the journey mass was said at three
o'clock in the morning at some tavern en route."
The ways and means of travel in Burgundy have considerably changed in
the last two hundred years, but the old-time flavour of the road still
hangs over all, and the traveller down through Burgundy to-day,
especially if he goes by road, may experience not a little of the charm
which has all but disappeared from modern France and its interminably
straight, level, tree-lined highways. Often enough one may stop at some
old posting inn famous in history and, as he wheels his way along, will
see the same historic monuments, magnificent churches and chateaux as
did that prolific letter writer, Madame de Sévigné.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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