"_Démène-toi, tourne toi, vire toi,_ _Tu ne trouveras pas plus beau que moi._" Épinac, too, is noted for its bottles, the fat-bellied, ample litres in which ripe old Burgundy is sold. "_Dame Jeans_" and "_flacons_" are here made by millions, which is only another way of referring to demijohns and bottles. Of their variety of shapes and sizes one may judge by the song the workers sing as they ply their trade: "_Messieurs, messieurs, laissez nous faire_ _On vous en donnera de toutes les façons._" The glass industry of Épinac, if not as old as its chateau, at least dates from the very earliest days of the art. Retracing one's steps some forty kilometres to Chalon-sur-Saône one comes midway to Chagny. The railroad guides chiefly make mention of Chagny as a junction where one is awakened at uncomfortable hours in the night to change cars. Some of us who have passed frequently that way can call attention to the fact that Chagny possesses, among other wonders, certain architectural glories which are worthy of consideration by even the hurried twentieth century traveller. Here is a fine twelfth century Roman tower, a former dependency of some civic establishment, but now serving as the _clocher_ of the church, a svelt but all imposing square broad-based tower of the local manor from which the seigneur of other days, even though he was not a "grand seigneur," stretched forth his velvet-clad iron hand in mighty benediction over his good men and true. Besides this there is a monstrosity of a cupola of the modern chateau which is hideous and prominent enough to be remarked from miles around. Clearly, then, Chagny is much more than a railway junction. No one who stops more than a passing hour here will regret it, although its historic shrines are not many nor beautiful to any high degree. CHAPTER XI MÂCON, CLUNY AND THE CHAROLLAIS Mâcon is a name well known to travellers across France, but its immediate environs are scarcely known at all save as they are recognized as a region devoted to the product of the vine. For a fact the romantic and historic lore which abounds within a short radius of the capital of the Mâconnais makes it one of the most interesting regions of mid-France. Lying just to the westward is the Charollais, whose capital, Charolles, the ancient fortress of the Comtes de Charolles, is surrounded by a veritable girdle of castles and donjons, the nearest two kilometres beyond the town. They formed in their prime an outer line of defence behind which the counts lived in comparative safety. Montersine, the nearest of these works, a vast rectangular donjon with _echauguettes_, must certainly have been the most formidable. Within ten leagues are the chateaux of Lugny, Rambeauteau and Corcheval--one of the most ancient of the Charollais. There are also Terreaux-à-Verostres, the Renaissance Chaumont at Saint-Bonnet-de-Joux and, finally, the fortress of Commune-sur-Martigny-le-Comte.