Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
The Grande Salle on the upper floor is one of the notable works of its
epoch with respect to its decorations, though the noble glass of its
numerous windows was destroyed long years ago, leaving behind only a
record of its magnificently designed _armoiries_ and inscriptions. The
chief, out-of-the-ordinary, decorations still to be observed are the
sculptured fronts of thirty-eight cupboard doors which enclose the
provincial archives. From an artistic, no less than a utilitarian, point
of view, they are certainly to be admired, even preferred, before the
"elastic" book cases of to-day.
Much of the old Palais des Dauphins' former magnificent attributes in
the shape of decorative details remain to charm the eye and senses
to-day, but of the extensive range of apartments of former times only a
bare three or four suggest by their groinings, carvings and
chimney-pieces the splendour with which the elder sons of the kings of
France were wont to surround themselves.
A remarkably successful work of restoration of the façade was
accomplished within a dozen years on the model of the best of
Renaissance details in other parts of the edifice, until to-day the
whole presents a most effective ensemble.
In Grenoble's museum is a room devoted to portraits of the good and
great of Dauphiny. There are a dozen busts in marble of as many
Dauphins, a portrait of Marie Vignon, the wife of Lesdiguières, and a
crayon sketch of Bayard, which is the earliest portrait of the
"Chevalier" extant. In the Église Saint Andre is the tomb of Bayard.
The funeral monument surmounting it was erected only in the seventeenth
century. The official chapel of the Dauphins has a great rectangular
_clocher_ remaining to suggest its former proportions. This fine tower
is surmounted by an octagonal upper story and is flanked at each corner
with a _clocheton_ rising hardily into the rarefied atmosphere. The grim
tower braves the tempests of winter to-day as it has since 1230.
Grenoble's Hôtel des Trois Dauphins is an historic monument as replete
with interest as many of more splendour. It was here that Napoleon
lodged, with General Bertrand, on the night when he passed through the
city on that eventful return from Elba when he sought to kindle the
European war-flame anew.
Grenoble's sole vestige of ancient castle or chateau architecture, aside
from the temporary royal abode of the French kings and the Dauphins, is
a round tower--La Grosse Tour Ronde--now built into the Hôtel de Ville,
the only existing relic of a still earlier Palais des Dauphins which in
its time stood upon the site of the ancient Roman remains of a structure
built in the days of Diocletian.
Grenoble's citadel possesses to-day only a square tower with
_machicoulis_ to give it the distinction of a militant spirit. It was
built in 1409, but to-day has been reduced to a mere barrack's accessory
of not the slightest military strength, a "_colombier militaire_," the
authorities themselves cynically call it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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