Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
Vauban's ancient ramparts have now been turned into a series of those
tree-planted promenades so common in France, but the militant aspect of
Grenoble is not allowed to be lost sight of, as a mere glance of the eye
upward to the hillsides and mountain crests roundabout plainly
indicates.
Grenoble, with its fort-crowned hill of "La Bastille," has been called
the Ehrenbreitstein of the Isère, a river which has played a momentous
part in the history of Savoy and Dauphiny, but which is little known or
recognized by those who follow the main lines of French travel.
Mont Rachet forms the underpinning of "La Bastille" and gives a foothold
to an old feudal fortress now built around by a more modern work. Below
is the juncture of the Isère and the Drac, and the great plain in the
midst of which rests the proud old capital of the Dauphins. The site is
truly remarkable and the strategic importance of the fortress was well
enough made use of in mediæval times as a feudal stronghold. What its
value for military purposes may actually be to-day is another story. The
walls of the fortress certainly look grim enough, but it is probable
that even the puniest of Alpine mountain batteries could reduce it in
short order.
Grenoble, as might be expected of a wealthy provincial capital, is
surrounded by a near-by battery of palatial country houses which may
well take rank as _chateaux de marque_. Some are modern and some are
remodelled from more ancient foundations, but all are of the imposing
order which one associates with a mountain retreat. These of course are
of a class quite distinct from the countless forts, fortresses, towers
and donjons with which the whole countryside is strewn.
Uriage, a near neighbour, is a popular resort in little, in fact, a
_ville d'eau_, as the French aptly name such places. The Chateau
d'Uriage will for most folk have vastly more sympathetic interest than
the semi-invalid attractions of the spa itself. It is at present the
property of the Saint Ferreol family, and though not strictly to be
reckoned as a sight, since it is not open to the public, it still
remains one of the most striking residential chateaux of these parts. It
was built by the Seigneurs d'Allemon under the old régime. Its
architecture is frankly of the nondescript order, a mélange of much that
is good and some that is bad, but all of it effective when judged from a
more or less distant view-point. With respect to its details it is a
livid mass of non-contemporary elements to which the purist would give
scant consideration, but the effect, always the most desirable quality
after all, is undeniably satisfying. The situation heightens this
effect, no doubt, but what would you? The high sloped roof, in place of
the mansards one usually sees, may be considered an innovation in a
structure of its epoch. It was so built, without question, that it might
better shed the snows of winter, which here come early and stay late.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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