Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque ProvincesMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
On the Pointe de Ste. Anne, the northern boundary of the estuary of
the Bidassoa, is a monumental château, the work of Viollet-le-Duc, built
by him for the Comte d'Abbadie. Modern though it is, its architectural
opulence is in keeping with the knowledge of its builder (the greatest
authority on Gothic the world has ever known, or ever will know); and as
a combination of the excellencies of old-time building with modern
improvements, this Château d'Abbadie stands quite in a class by itself.
At the death of the widow of the Comte d'Abbadie, the château was
bequeathed by her to the Institut de France.
The view seaward from the little peninsula upon which the château sits
is marvellously soft and beautiful, and what matter it if the fish of
the Golfe de Fontarabie to the south have no eyes--if indeed his
statement be true. No oculist or zoölogist has said it, but a poet has
written thus:--
"Le poisson qui rouvrit l'oeil mort du vieux Tobie
Se joue au fond du golfe où dort fontarabie."
Near by is the Forêt d'Yraty, much like most of the forests of France,
except that this is all up and down hill, clinging perilously wherever
there is enough loose soil for a tree to take root.
The inhabitants tell you of a "wild man" discovered here by the
shepherds, in 1774, long before the days of circus wild men. He was
tall, well proportioned and covered with hair like a bear, and always in
a good humour, though he did not speak an intelligible language. His
chief amusement was sheep-stealing, and one day it was determined to
take him prisoner. The shepherds and the authorities tried for
twenty-five years, until finally he disappeared from view--and so the
legend ends.
Across the estuary of the Bidassoa, in truth, the Baie de Fontarabie,
the sunsets are of a magnificence seldom seen. There _may_ be others as
gorgeous elsewhere, but none more so, and one can well imagine the same
refulgent red glow, of which historians write, that graced the occasion
when Cristobal Colon (or his Basque precursor) set out into the west.
In connection with all this neighbouring Franco-Espagnol country of the
Basques, one is bound to recall the great events of these last years,
both at Biarritz, and at San Sebastian, across the border. The cachet of
the king of England's approval has been given to the former, and of that
of the king of Spain to the latter. Already the region has become known
as the _Côte d'Argent_, as is the Riviera the _Côte d'Azure_, and the
north Brittany coast the _Côte d'Emeraud_.
It was here on the _Côte d'Argent_ that King Alfonso did his wooing, his
automobile flashing to and fro between St. Sebastian and Biarritz,
crossing and recrossing the frontier stream of the Bidassoa. Bridges of
stone and steel carry the traffic now, and it passes between Irun and
Hendaye, higher up the river, but in the old days, the days of François
I, the passage was more picturesquely made by ferry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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