Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
Within this "_tour octagone"--"qui fait à ses huit pans hurler un
gorgone_"--is built this marvellous openwork stairway,--an _escalier à
jour_, as the French call it,--without an equal in all France, and for
daring and decorative effect unexcelled by any of those Renaissance
motives of Italy itself. Its ascent turns not, as do most _escaliers_,
from left to right, but from right to left. It is the prototype of those
supposedly unique outside staircases pointed out to country cousins in
the abodes of Fifth Avenue millionaires.
It is as impossible to catalogue the various apartments and their
accessories here, as it is to include a chronology of the great events
which have passed within their walls. One thing should be remembered,
and that is, that the architect Duban restored the château throughout in
recent years. In spite of this restoration one may readily enough
reconstruct the scene of the murder of the Duc de Guise from the great
fireplace on the second floor before which De Guise was standing when
summoned by a page to the kingly presence, from the door through which
he entered to his death, and from the wall where hung the tapestry
behind which he was to pass. All this is real enough, and also the "Tour
des Oubliettes," in which the duke's brother, the cardinal, suffered,
and of which many horrible tales are still told by the attendants.
Duban, the architect, came with his careful restorations and pictured
with a most exact fidelity the decorations and the furnishings of the
times of François, of Catherine, and of Henri III. The ornate
chimneypieces have been furbished up anew, the walls and ceilings
covered with new paint and gold; nothing could be more opulent or
glorious, but it gives the impression of a city dwelling or a great
hotel, "newly done up," as the house renovators express it.
One contrasting emotion will be awakened by a contemplation of the two
great Salles des Gardes and the apartments of Catherine de Medici; here,
at least for the moment, is a relief from the intrigues, massacres, and
assassinations which otherwise went on, for one recalls that, at one
period, "_danses, ballets et jeux_" took place here continuously.
In the apartments of Catherine there is much to remind one of "the base
Florentine," as it has been the fashion of latter-day historians to
describe the first of the Medici queens. Nothing could be more sumptuous
than the Galerie de la Reine, her _Cabinet de Toilette_, or her _Chambre
à Coucher_, with its secret panels, where she died on the 5th of
January, 1589, "adored and revered," but soon forgotten, and of no more
account than "_une chèvre mort_," says one old chronicler.
The apartments of Catherine de Medici were directly beneath the
guard-room where the Balafré was murdered, and that event, taking place
at the very moment when the "queen-mother" was dying, cannot be said to
have been conducive to a peaceful demise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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