Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
The opening lines of "Le Vicomte de Bragelonne" are laid here. "It
should have been a source of pride to the city of Blois," says Dumas,
"that Gaston of Orleans had chosen it as his residence, and held his
court in the ancient château of the States."
Here, too, in the second volume of the D'Artagnan romances, is the scene
of that most affecting meeting between his Majesty Charles II., King of
England, and Louis XIV.
Altogether one lives here in the very spirit of the pages of Dumas. Not
only Blois, but Langeais, Chambord, Cheverny, Amboise, and many other
châteaux figure in the novels with an astonishing frequency, and,
whatever the critics may say of the author's slips of pen and memory,
Dumas has given us a wonderfully faithful picture of the life of the
times.
In 1793 all the symbols and emblems of royalty were removed from the
château and destroyed. The celebrated bust of Gaston, the chief artistic
attribute of that part of the edifice built by him, was decapitated, and
the statue of Louis XII. over the entrance gateway was overturned and
broken up. Afterward the château became the property of the "domaine"
and was turned into a mere barracks. The Pavilion of Queen Anne became a
"_magasin des subsistances militaires_," the Tour de l'Observatoire, a
powder-magazine, and all the indignities imaginable were heaped upon the
château.
In 1814 Blois became the last capital of Napoleon's empire, and the
château walls sheltered the prisoners captured by the imperial army.
Blois's most luxurious church edifice was the old abbey church of St.
Sauveur, which was built from 1138 to 1210. It lost the royal favour in
1697, when Louis XIV. made Blois a city of bishops as well as of counts,
and transferred the chapter of St. Sauveur's to the bastard Gothic
edifice first known as St. Solenne, but which soon took on the name of
St. Louis. In spite of the claims of the old church, this cold,
unfeeling, and ugly mixture of tomblike Renaissance became, and still
remains, the bishop's church of Blois.
One must not neglect or forget the magnificent bridge which crosses the
Loire at Blois. A work of 1717-24, it bears the Rue Denis Papin across
its eleven solidly built masonry piers. Above the central arch is
erected a memorial pyramid and tablet which states the fact that it was
one of the first works of the reign of Louis XV.
Blois altogether, then, offers a multitudinous array of attractions for
the tourist who makes his first entrance to the châteaux country through
its doors. The town itself has not the appeal of Tours, of Angers, or of
Nantes; but, for all that, its abundance of historic lore, the admirable
preservation of its chief monument, and the general picturesqueness of
its site and the country round about make up for many other qualities
that may be lacking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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