Catalonia & the Balearic Islands: an historical and desciptive accountCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Catalonia & the Balearic Islands: an historical and desciptive account
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Balearic Islands (Spain) -- Description and travel; Catalonia (Spain) -- Description and travel
We presently pass the Bishop’s Palace, an eighteenth-century structure
incorporating some late Romanesque arcading. But leaving other
interesting buildings in this the oldest quarter of Barcelona for the
moment, we will seek the next most notable church in the town, that of
Santa Maria del Mar. It occupies the site of the earliest shrine of
Santa Eulalia, over which Bishop Aetius built a temple in the thousandth
year of our era. This modest church was replaced by another in the year
1329, which was restored and reconsecrated after a disastrous fire in
1383 under the reign of Pedro the Ceremonious. All classes of the
community assisted in the work. Those who could not give money gave
their labour, and in commemoration of this two small bronze figures
carrying stone and timber adorn the principal door. The edifice is a
good example of the Catalan church in its breadth and height of nave and
simplicity of plan. Like the cathedral, it forms a parallelogram rounded
at the east end, and presents an unbroken line of wall to the exterior.
Churches of this type usually consist of nave only, but Santa Maria del
Mar has two aisles. Enormous octagonal columns carry the main arches and
the groining ribs which all spring from their capitals. The wall rib
towards the nave is carried up higher than the main arches, so as to
allow space between them for a small circular and traceried clerestory
window in each bay. The arches of the apse are very narrow, and
enormously stilted. There are small windows above them, but they are
modernised. The aisles are groined on the same level as the main arches,
a few feet, therefore, below the vault of the nave, and they are lighted
by a four-light traceried window in each bay, the sill of which is above
the string-course formed by continuing the abacus of the capitals of the
groining shafts. Below this are three arches in each bay, opening into
side chapels between the main buttresses. Each of these chapels is
lighted by a traceried window of two lights, and the outer wall presents
a long unbroken line, until above the chapels, when the buttresses rise
boldly up to support the great vaults of the nave and aisles.[A] The
interior, though still simple and dignified, has been marred by modern
restorations. Another peculiarity remains to be noted: the choir is
placed behind the high altar. Of this latter, a costly but
churrigueresque erection, the less said the better. The royal pew in the
south aisle, recalling the days when Barcelona was a capital, was
connected with the palace by a gallery now destroyed. The church
contains some good glass and examples of the art of Villadomat, a
painter of whom Catalonia can boast. His fate was extremely sad: for the
last seventeen years of his long life, he was paralysed in both hands.
[A] Street, “Gothic Architecture in Spain.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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