Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
magnificence of his favourite Wolsey, seemed entirely eclipsed, and the
three men appear almost as puppets, unstable and vacillating, now the
closest of friends, and now the bitterest of enemies.
Abbeville still maintains many of the old picturesque landmarks which
made it a favourite sketching ground for Prout and for Ruskin. The
market-place is surrounded by a number of houses with high pitched
gables, coloured in various tints of white, grey and pale green. Some
beautiful drawings by Ruskin, executed in pencil and tint, which have
lately been exhibited to the public, bear testimony to its
picturesqueness, of which a great deal still remains in the side
streets and along the river front.
[Illustration: ABBEVILLE]
The church of St. Wolfran is late Flamboyant, and is looked upon by
Ruskin as “a wonderful proof of the fearlessness of a living
architecture,” for, say what one will of it, that Flamboyant of France,
however morbid, was as vivid and intense in its imagination as ever any
phase of mortal mind. The nave consists of bays having a high clerestory
and a triforium screened by rich sixteenth century carving. The ribs of
the vaulting fall sheer down without imposts or break of any kind. The
low chancel and eastern termination of the church are unworthy of the
splendid carving of the western façade.
The approach to Amiens offers no _coup d’œil_ of clustering towers or
spires such as an English or Norman cathedral city usually gives us, and
the Cathedral itself is hidden as we pass into the heart of the town
along the Rue des Trois Cailloux, a street which is said to follow the
alignment of the old city walls. Ruskin advises the traveller, however
short his time may be, to devote it, not to the contemplation of arches
and piers and coloured glass, but to the woodwork of the chancel, which
he considers the most beautiful carpenter’s work of the Flamboyant
period. Note should be taken of two windows in the Chapel of the
Cardinal de la Grange, built about 1375. These are very interesting as
foreshadowing in their detail that style of architecture--the
Flamboyant--which obtained in France in the fifteenth century and was
contemporaneous with the English Perpendicular.
The two western towers look little more than heavily built buttresses,
and as towers are not very appropriate in design, being not square, but
oblong in plan. They rise little above the ridge line of the nave, whose
crossing with the transepts is marked by a beautiful _flèche_, which
Ruskin, however, describes as “merely the caprice of a village
carpenter.” As he further declares, the Cathedral of Amiens is “in
dignity inferior to Chartres, in sublimity to Beauvais, in decorative
splendour to Rheims, and in loveliness of figure sculpture to Bourges,”
yet it fully deserves the name given to it by Viollet-le-Duc--“The
Parthenon of Gothic architecture.”
[Illustration: THE PLACE VOGEL, AMIENS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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