Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
The little city of Senlis, with its girdle of Roman walls and watch
towers, is one of the most attractive places within reach of Paris. It
is situated about thirty-five miles to the northeast, in the midst of
the great forest land of Hallatte and Chantilly. Until the dissolution
of the Carlovingian empire Senlis enjoyed the privileges of a royal
residence, and, indeed, down to the time of Henri de Navarre the kings
of France continued to visit the city, and were lodged in a castle built
on the site of the Roman prætorium. The ruins of this castle, some of
which date from the eleventh century, may still be seen among the
attractions of Senlis; and of even greater interest are the Roman
ramparts which surround the town and which were built when it still held
its position as the township of the Silvanectes. These walls,
“twenty-three feet high and thirteen feet thick, are, with those of St.
Lizier (Ariège) and Bourges, the most perfect in France. They enclosed
an oval area 1024 feet long from east to west and 794 feet wide from
north to south. At each of the angles formed by the broken lines of
which the circuit of 2756 feet is composed, stands or stood a tower;
numbering originally twenty-eight and now only sixteen, they are
semicircular in plan, and up to the height of the wall are unpierced.
The Roman city had only two gates; the present number is five.”
As one approaches the town from the station through the boulevard, the
Renaissance tower of Saint Pierre and the beautiful _flèche_ of the
Cathedral stand right ahead. The first of these two churches is now
desecrated and converted into a large market hall, having previously
been used as cavalry barracks. It is short and broad, having only three
bays to the nave, two to the choir, and an apse of three lights; but it
has one very marked feature, which is also seen, though to a lesser
extent, in the Cathedral of Saint Gatien at Tours--the axis of the choir
trends northwards, making with the nave an angle of some seventeen to
twenty degrees. There is a certain amount of early Gothic work worth
notice, but the prevailing style is Flamboyant; in the two last side
chapels of the choir some curious vaulting is to be found, resembling
rude attempts at fan tracery with heavy keyed pendants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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