Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
In an extract from his private diary Ruskin gives the following
description of this walk along the river, showing it in an aspect at
once squalid and picturesque: “Amiens, May 11th.--I had a happy walk
here this afternoon, down among the branching currents of the Somme: it
divides into five or six, shallow, green, and not over-wholesome;
some quite narrow and foul, running beneath clusters of fearful houses,
reeling masses of rotten timber; and a few mere stumps of pollard willow
sticking out of the banks of soft mud, only retained in shape of bank by
being shored up with timbers; and boats like paper boats, nearly as thin
at least, for the costermongers to paddle about in among the weeds, the
water soaking through the lath bottoms, and floating the dead leaves
from the vegetable baskets with which they were loaded. Miserable little
back yards, opening to the water, with steep stone steps down to it, and
little platforms for the ducks; and separate duck staircases, composed
of a sloping board with cross bits of wood leading to the ducks’ doors;
and sometimes a flower-pot or two on them, or even a flower--one group,
of wall-flowers and geraniums, curiously vivid, being seen against the
darkness of a dyer’s backyard, who had been dyeing black, and all was
black in his yard but the flowers, and they fiery and pure; the water by
no means so, but still working its way steadily over the weeds, until it
narrowed into a current strong enough to turn two or three windmills,
one working against the side of an old Flamboyant Gothic church, whose
richly traceried buttresses sloped down into the filthy stream; all
exquisitely picturesque, and no less miserable. We delight in seeing
the figures in these boats, pushing them about the bits of blue water,
in Prout’s drawings; but as I looked to-day at the unhealthy face and
melancholy mien of the man in the boat pushing his load of peat along
the ditch, and of the people, men as well as women, who sat spinning
gloomily at the cottage doors, I could not help feeling how many persons
must pay for my picturesque subject and happy walk.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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